Home > Travel Articles > A whale of a time: Whale watching in South Africa
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by Emma Gass, 19 May 2010
As the cold air begins to roll off the ocean during the first few months of winter in South Africa we are reminded that it is getting downright frigid in Antarctica. This is when the Southern Right whales migrate to the relatively warmer waters around the southern tip of Africa to mate, calve and nurse their young, and the Humpback whales head towards Mozambique.
Between June and November Southern Right whales, and sometimes Humpback, Bryde and Orca whales, can be seen lolling around (not the scientific term) in the waters just metres off the Western Cape coast.
The coastline around the southern tip of Africa is particularly well known for its spectacular whale spotting in season, which explains why it is known locally as "The Whale Coast.” The town of Hermanus has become quite famous for the quality of its land-based whale watching. Clamber over the rocks around the old Hermanus harbour to get even closer to these enormous, barnacled beasts; or stroll along the fynbos-lined cliff path with its magnificent views across Walker Bay and the whales breaching, lob tailing and spy hopping (I'm not making these ones up) in the distance.
One of my favourite areas on the Whale Coast for whale watching is along the cliffs of De Kelders. Walking along these high, sparsely vegetated cliff tops that are riddled with caves and dotted with sandy coves is beautiful in any season, with views across to Hermanus and on a clear day, all the way to Cape Point on the other side of False Bay. During whale season, however, these cliffs give you a perfect vantage point for watching the whales right below you, as their mournful bellows rise up to you.
Although the Whale Coast is known for its excellent whale watching, the whales don't just hang around this southern bit of coastline. During whale season between June and November you could be lucky to spot them waving a flipper at you from the harbour in Simon's Town, or while you eat your lunch on the edge of the ocean in Kalk Bay. They sometimes make a nice distraction as you sip your cocktails at the Twelve Apostles Hotel or the Camps Bay strip.
The Southern Right whales migrate as far up the coast as the Garden Route, with some great boat-based whale watching available in Plettenberg Bay. For those who enjoy their walking, hike around the beautiful Robberg Peninsula in Plettenberg Bay for an elevated view of the bay and easier whale spotting. The humpback whales are also a common sight during whale season as they pass South Africa's East Coast on their way up to Mozambique, and Orcas were seen off the Garden Route coast recently too.
The Whale Coast is so famous for its whale watching, not only because its waters are teeming with whales but also because it is so easy. An invigorating cliff top walk with beautiful sea views becomes even more rewarding when it includes whale sightings. Find a bench or a comfy rock and become mesmerized by the whale of a show, before moving on to view things from a different angle.
Often the best way to get up close to whales in their natural environment is by boat. This takes you out of your natural environment and into the whale's environment, with the added bonus of insightful knowledge provided by the experts on the boat. Make sure you go with a reputable company that holds a whale watching permit for their area. This is to ensure your safety and that of the whales; boats are not allowed to approach within 50m of the whales although these enormous, curious mammals often approach for a much closer look which is allowed. Finding yourself staring down the blowhole of a gigantic, gentle whale is a completely unique experience.
For boat-based whale watching of a different kind, choose a smaller boat for a more natural experience. Sea Kayaking is offered from Plettenberg Bay to the seal colony on Robberg Peninsula with a good chance of kayaking near the whales of the bay during whale season, and being accompanied by dolphins all year round.
An exhilarating whale watching option is to take to the skies. A completely different experience from getting up close and personal, a scenic flight in a small aircraft over Walker Bay on the Whale Coast gives you an opportunity to spot many more whales, to see the family group formations and the interaction between individual whales including mothers and their calves. This form of whale watching is particularly exciting for keen photographers who can have unobstructed views of the whales.
Every season has its highlights and the undeniable highlight of the winter and spring months in South Africa is whale season and the opportunity to see these magnificent creatures playing, mating and nursing their newborn calves.
Ocean's Eleven Guest House - Perched on top of the cliffs in Hermanus this guesthouse has breathtaking views across Walker Bay. All the rooms are sea facing, so you can practically lie in your bed and watch the whales.
Birkenhead House - One of the most well known names in Hermanus, Birkenhead House is an opportunity for whale watching in luxury. Indulge in beautiful surroundings, delicious cuisine, great service and 180 degree views of Walker Bay.
Cliff Lodge - Away from the hustle of larger Hermanus, Cliff Lodge dangles on the edge of the De Kelder cliffs. Let the whales sing you to sleep at this intimate, 4-bedroom guest house.
Grootbos Nature Reserve - Although not on the coast, this beautiful nature reserve has breathtaking views of Walker Bay and the staff will happily take you to the cliffs for land-based whale watching, provide sundowners on their whale watching deck on the coast, will guarantee you a place on the popular whale watching boats and can also organize whale watching from the air for their guests.
Rodwell House - A grand boutique hotel in the upmarket area of St. James near Kalk Bay. Watch out for whales as you take your breakfast on the front veranda.
The Plettenberg - Watch the whales playing from the lovely rim flow swimming pool as you gaze across the bay towards the distant Tsitsikamma Mountains.
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