by Dominic Chadbon, 17 May 2010

Pick up your average Kenya tourist brochure and chances are there'll be some dopey looking gnu staring blankly back at you from a sweeping savannah. Kenya is indeed the Land of The Safari and home to the World Famous Wildebeest Migration but is that all there is?

Of course not, as you are undoubtedly aware: sandwiched between Tanzania and Somalia is one of Africa's most intriguing and historically important coastlines. Arab traders, African civilisations and European colonialists have all left their mark on this traditional centre of Swahili society and the resulting mix of mosques, churches, forts, ornate tombs and mysterious ruins is a legacy of these eclectic cultures.

The Kenyan coast is also an area of great natural beauty and home to much wildlife: there are marine parks, bustling coral reefs, bird-filled coastal forests and nature reserves, all of which makes for a fabulously diverse holiday but with so much on offer for the newcomer, choosing the right place isn't so easy.

Kenya Beach Basics

Names like Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu should ring a few bells but with so many other unfamiliar names it gets confusing down there, and several Kenya beach destinations are 'themed' in so far as they attract a certain crowd - you don't really want to pick the wrong one.

So who better to clear up all the uncertainty than someone who not only has lived and worked there (bummer of a job hey?) but now spends her time sending her happy, soon-to-be-sunburnt customers there.

Her name is Lauren, and she knows her way round a Kenyan beach or two.

"The first thing to do is divide the Kenya coast into 4 regions", she says with an air of authority. "The Southern Coast, the Mombasa and Malindi regions in the middle, and the Lamu Archipelago in the far north - but remember each region is quite different from the other."

Enlighten us.

Southern Comfort: Diani, Galu and Funzi

Perfect long white beaches are what you can expect on the southern Kenyan coast. Galu and Diani take care of families and beach-goers who want a classic tropical beach holiday and top-end Funzi is the perfect do-not-disturb getaway for honeymooners and romantics. (According to Lauren, the service at these luxury lodges is so good that if you feel like breakfast at 03:00 am, you'll get it - and with a smile.)

"It's quieter down south and there are some of the best dive spots on the coast," she continues, "head for Wasini Island where there is a marine reserve and perfect reefs".

Even better is the fact that the southern coast can easily be combined with a safari: not only is Shimba Hills National Reserve little more than an hour's drive from Diani but you can have lunch in the legendary Masai Mara, hop on a plane and be in time for sundowners on the beach.

Centre Stage: Mombasa

So go on Lauren, tell us what you really think of Mombasa. "Well, it's certainly a big party there!" she smiles, "but although there are some big hotels and resorts all crowded on top of each other, there are some quieter, more exclusive places too and with all the facilities and activities on offer, it's great for families too."

Mombasa has of course long been the Kenya beach destination for the younger, more social crowd but that also means great restaurants, clubs and adventures. "Go shopping for Gucci at roadside clothing vendors", advises Lauren, "and explore Mombasa - it's not the cleanest town I've been to but it's certainly one of the most fascinating."

Good for diving and great for deep sea fishing, the Mombasa region is a little harder to combine easily with a safari but according to Lauren nothing beats the Tamarind dhow sunset cruise and sailing home under a blanket of stars.

Heart of the Coast: Malindi

"Stunning!" is how Lauren sums up the Malindi region. "The town is the cleanest on the coast, the beaches amazing and the hotels not packed together like at Mombasa."

Popular with the ex-pat crowd and European holidaymakers, Malindi and nearby Watamu are the sort of places that, once you've been, you tend to come back. "For want of a better expression, it's got a good vibe," says Lauren, "and just offshore there is the Malindi Marine National Park so the diving is fabulous".

Lauren recommends Malindi for families and couples who want a quieter Kenya beach experience - and it's the place to go for great tag-and-release deep sea fishing.

And there's more: keen bird watchers won't want to miss the birding bonanza at the nearby Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve (no, Lauren couldn't say it either) but the big stuff hangs out at Tsavo National Park, a hundred or so kilometres inland. She recommends a couple of nights at Kenya's biggest reserve where you'll be on the lookout for classic African game such as elephant, rhino and lion.

Northern Delights: Lamu Archipelago

Well, it's certainly not grim up north: mention the words Lamu Archipelago and Lauren gets all misty-eyed. "It's the place I'd go back to," she admits, "Lamu was once the hippy hangout and although it's gone more upmarket now there's still a wonderful, laid-back atmosphere."

Expect a barefoot luxury deal: "you'll take boat transfers between the islands and there are fantastic lodges and private villas," says Lauren, "but once you're there you'll be getting around on foot or by donkey cart."

Indeed, there is only one car on Lamu Island (it belongs to the Mayor) and things are even sleepier on Manda and Kiwayu Islands, perfect for honeymooners and romantics, while the number of beach villas on the archipelago means it's great for families too. Throw in good diving and fishing, excellent squeaky-sand beaches, professional-photographer-quality sunsets and big slices of Swahili and Islamic culture and you've got a classic, got-it-all holiday destination.

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