Chasing Small Miracles in the Namaqualand

by Marco Monteiro-Silva, 1 November 2007

When the rains come the arid Northern Cape in South Africa blooms: wild flowers put on a display that draws people from around the world, and the region's small towns open up to visitors. This month, Marco chases small miracles in the Namaqualand.

Land of the Nama

Curiosity often gets me into all sorts of travel. The cat visits in various forms, sometimes piqued by rumours, passing conversations and, last month, simply stirred by desert rain.

Namaqualand in South Africa's remote Northern Cape, is the land of the Nama people. Its landscape is mostly unrelenting - except for every July to September when it bears witness to a small colourful miracle. Against all odds, thousands of wildflowers rise from the dust, spreading across the harsh semi-desert in fields of colour.

The N7

The 550km from Cape Town to Northern Cape towns that sprout off the N7. Guesthouses here are undoubtedly better than those found in Kamieskroon and Garies, and conveniences like restaurants, bottle stores and shops are plentiful. Basing yourself in Springbok, it's easy to set off on day trips to nearby towns and nature reserves.

Goegap Nature Reserve

On any trip, you inevitably land yourself in memorable holiday situations that usually come in two forms - the high and the shockingly low. Driving into the Goegap Nature after a night of farmhouse accommodation that can only be described as 'interesting' our spirits were much like roadside flowers - colourful but slightly trampled on. Greeted with the news at the tourist centre that the best areas for flower viewing were only reachable by 4x4 this late in the season didn't help matters.

And yet, moments later we found ourselves alone for miles. Switching the car off, we shared some salami sandwiches as we watched a herd of gemsbok quietly graze in the distance, surrounded by the last of the season's wild flowers.

People may come to Namaqualand for the flowers, but really the magic here is the same as in many other special South African destinations - miles of untouched wilderness running fast and free under an endless blue sky. In a modern world that is trying its best to squeeze a growing population into small expensive apartments and even smaller hotel rooms, open space is the last refuge of the travelling spirit.

We lay back in our seats for an hour with our windows rolled down and our bare feet hanging out the windows, the smell of wildflowers filling our heads in a sweet drunkenness, our ears tuned into the thousands of little voices peppering the airwaves. Bugs and birds and lizards sang and scuttled in a single natural rhythm.

While my co-pilot photographed flowers, I daydreamed while staring at quiver trees. Named by the San Bushmen and used to make quivers for their poison-tipped arrows these stoic aloes can live to 400 years of age.

Outdoor Café

Back in town we find a cafe with an open deck. Cold beer, sunshine, and good company make up the afternoon. A resident African grey parrot keeps us entertained as he keeps trying to bite the bottom of the passing waitress, while his owner nurses a brandy and coke (called klippies and Coke by locals) and watches provincial rugby - the staple diets of much of small town South Africa. Refreshed, we set out to explore close by Kamieskroon and the Namaqua National Park.

Kamieskroon

It's a Saturday afternoon in Kamieskroon. The streets are deserted, and in the whole town we find only one inhabitant - a lost, black-faced sheep intent on walking alongside our creeping car. Eventually, we find the liveliest corner of town where two men are washing a giant 18 wheel truck.

Asking locals for directions in this part of the world, becomes a game of ping-pong between languages, words cloaked by missing front teeth, and cackles and howls. Many hand gestures later, we're pointed in the direction of the Namaqua Park.

When it comes to exploring, Namaqualand is very much Wild West type country. Things become tricky quickly, signs are scarce and dirt roads bully our little car sending us back with our exhaust pipe tucked between our legs.

Two valuable things should be brought with you when visiting Namaqualand: an off road vehicle, and time. Getting lost will inevitably play a crucial role in this corner of South Africa and you'll want to be able to endure any spontaneous exploration.

Nieuwoudtville

We leave Springbok in the early morning - destination Nieuwoudtville. The bulb capital of the world is about three-and-a-half hours south of Springbok and a perfect way to loop back home to Cape Town.

The drive to Nieuwoudtville introduces us to a much softer Namakwa scenery of flat fields and far-off mountains. Before long were climbing an ear popping 600m up Vanrhyn's Pass. Reaching the plateau, we drive though green forest and into lusher, more rain-filled area than the Northern Cape.

As a town, Nieuwoudtville is smaller than Springbok, but has more charm. It's the kind of town where you wave to strangers as you pass, where local boys ride up and down dirt roads on bicycles and nod 'poker faced' hellos from under baseball caps.

Knocking on doors we find a stone villa to rent for the night. Sheep bleat outside our window, weaver song and warm brandy evaporate all flower chasing concerns.

In a single afternoon we explore local farms, visit the nearby quiver tree forest, the waterfall, and eat at a restaurant that had the dubious distinction of literally having a hole in its wall. What places in the Northern Cape often lack in fine food, they make up for in friendliness and memorable encounters.

In retrospect, Nieuwoudtville deserved more attention than a night's stay. Visitors to Namaqualand with time constraints, would do best to choose between the two major areas (Springbok and Nieuwoudtville) rather than squeezing it all in. 'Flower chasers' lose out, and every local agrees the true way to see the flowers, is to take the time to stop and smell them.

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