Chimp Trekking in Mahale - Tanzania

by Leigh Kemp, 28 March 2008

Water bottles and surgical masks were handed out to everyone, with the explanation that the masks were for the protection of the chimps.

"The trackers haven't found them yet,” our knowledgeable guide, Tolo, informed us.

"So enjoy your breakfast and we'll wait a while to see what happens.”

There wasn't a hint of concern on the faces of the people around me. So what if the chimps were hiding ... we'd just spend more time savouring our scrumptious breakfast and the magnificent view of Tanzania's Mahale Mountains.

Chimp Tales

According to Tolo, the trackers at Mahale Mountains National Park leave at dawn to find the chimpanzees. After locating the troop they call in the sighting so that the guides at the lodge know in which direction they should walk.

If the guides decide not to wait for the call, they may end up taking the guests in the opposite direction of the chimps - resulting in a tiring march for everyone.

It was interesting to learn that the chimps, being so closely related to humans in their biological makeup, are susceptible to human ailments including the common cold, hence the reason for the surgical masks that were handed out earlier.

It's also the reason why guests with a cold or those who are carrying communicable ailments aren't allowed to get close to the chimps.

Waiting for the Call

We sat for a while listening in fascination to chimpanzee tales and waiting for the call from the trackers - but it seemed the chimps were hiding.

Finally, when it looked as though we'd have to give up for the day, Tolo mentioned that the trackers were confident they were in the vicinity of the chimps. Tolo decided that we should start walking in the general direction in the hope that we'll get lucky. A sense of excitement gripped everyone.

As soon as we left camp we began climbing in the Mahale Mountains and a seemingly impenetrable forest; although our route was made easier by the paths that had been carved out for easier access into the forest.

We passed mango and guava trees that had been growing for 30 years; since the time when Japanese scientists fed the chimps fruit as a means of habituating them to the presence of humans. By doing this the scientists were able to study the chimps' behaviour from up close.

Mud and Sunlight

The rain started 15 minutes into the walk and continued for over an hour, as we slipped and tripped our way further into the mountainous forest - and then the sun broke through the clouds, dappling the forest in sparkling jewels of light.

There was a moment of unbroken silence before the forest came alive again to the sounds of insects and birds.

"The trackers have found the chimps but they'll be moving soon now that the rain has stopped, so we'll have to hurry,” Tolo told us with a hint of urgency in his voice and a lengthening of his stride. We continued to pant and cough our way higher into the forest.

Butterflies flittered through the patches of light, birds teased the shadows and the sounds of the forest pushed our senses to the limit ... monkeys, birds, insects ... and the potent scent of the damp vegetation was intoxicating.

I tried to absorb as much of the ambience as I possibly could while stumbling briskly along the path.

"The chimps are moving so we'll have to walk faster.”

Grooming Between Friends

We scrambled anxiously up and down slippery slopes, grabbing onto stems and roots to steady our footing ... suddenly Tolo stopped.

We listened, our gasping breaths competing with the sounds of the forest. Then we heard them, piercing whooping calls and grunts and the excitement took over. We approached carefully and, seemingly out of nowhere, there sat two male chimps grooming each other ... directly in the path ahead of us.

It was a while before I thought of taking a photo, so caught up was I in the scene. I lifted the camera to my eye but found my trigger finger was quivering.

Enthralled, we watched the interaction between the two until they got up and moved off. Up ahead a tracker pointed into the trees and there we saw more chimps feeding in the treetops.

It wasn't long before they began to climb down and move towards the river. There they continued intermingling and I was amazed at their human-like mannerisms.

Scientists have determined a 10m barrier between the chimps and trekkers to prevent any mishaps - a rule that is strictly adhered to by guides and rangers.

However, there are times that this rule is broken, such as when the chimpanzees unexpectedly decide to move somewhere as a young one did, brushing past me when crossing the river.

Precious Moments

Too soon it was time to leave the troop behind to their antics and head back to camp. The immensity of the experience began to sink in when I was lying in my bed listening to the sounds of the forest that night.

The next morning we found the chimps in close proximity to where we had left them the day before and again spent a few remarkable hours watching them go about their business, totally oblivious to us sitting close by.

In fact there are numerous chimpanzee troops in Tanzania's Mahale Mountains National Park, the majority of these aren't accustomed to human interaction. Occasionally some of these troops can be observed from boats on Lake Tanganyika, although these sightings are brief as the animals immediately disappear into the forest.

It's a fast-growing tourist industry and there are many locations in East and Central Africa where you can encounter chimpanzees; but Mahale National Park is arguably the remotest and most picturesque of all the areas.

Only accessible by boat, the park is truly one of Africa's most extraordinary wilderness areas and a Mahale safari is an experience that'll live on forever in your memory.

As we left I realised how easy it would be to turn the events of Mahale into a philosophical debate about evolution and life - instead I felt privileged just to have experienced what we did.

Readers' Comments:

Have you experienced chimpanzee or gorilla trekking and was it one your most memorable experiences? In your opinion, what is Africa's greatest wildlife spectacle?Let us know.

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