Ecotourism Gets a Luxury Makeover

Luxury Without the Guilt

by Sandra Mallinson, 21 April 2008

Exotic cocktails, long leisurely days, and drifting away on a massage bed - holidays are a time to forget about stress, and indulge in the finer things in life. But for many the feel-good factor of some decadent time away, is tainted by pangs of green guilt.

Over the past decade there's been a massive shift in people's attitudes towards the environment, which has brought with it a boom in ecotourism and responsible travel. That little prefix 'eco' tends to conjures up images of back-to-basics bucket showers, and a slightly rough-around-the-edges wilderness experience. But is that always the case?

On a recent visit to the Bazaruto Archipelago, I had the opportunity to chat to Christopher Bettany, the owner of Azura at Gabriel's - a new eco-luxury retreat on Benguerra Island. Azura is one of an increasing number of resorts which has moved beyond biodegradable soap, and focused instead on investing in environmental and community-based projects.

Sipping chilled chardonnay and snacking on sushi, I was interested to hear how he feels 'eco' and 'luxury' can sit comfortably side by side.

How involved is the local community in the running of Azura?

"We originally got the rights to the land from Gabriel [a local businessman], who ran a backpackers here. He is now our local partner with a 40 percent shareholding, and is actively involved in everything to do with Azura.

"We also have employment and purchasing policies in place. Whenever possible jobs are given to people living on Benguerra Island, and goods and services are supplied by local and regional businesses.

"Throughout the country there is a lack of Mozambicans in management and ownership positions, and we are one of only a handful of lodges where the community are major contributors and stakeholders. "

Are all the staff from the island?

"The majority of our staff are local. To begin with we've also employed Zimbabweans, to help impart their skills and knowledge of the tourism industry to the local community. Our Mozambican staff have typically grown up in disadvantaged communities, and so have a low level of education.

"We have fantastic and enthusiastic people working for us. Our local staff have been very open to training, and have quickly acquired and developed new skills. We'd like to increase the number of islanders employed over time."

You obviously have a strong focus on education. You also funded the building of the local school, didn't you?

"Yes, the original island school had no decent facilities, and no accommodation for the teachers. We renovated existing classrooms, increased the capacity from 110 to around 400 students, and built teachers' houses. Unfortunately, the cyclone in 2007 flattened a lot of it, so we're currently rebuilding.

"In the next phase, we would like to introduce free lunchtime meals. And, as the island school only takes children up to the age of 13, we'd also like to give the most promising students bursaries to complete their education on the mainland.

"Gabriel's son Zito is currently being sponsored to do a three-year Diploma in Hospitality at the International Hotel School in South Africa. Although Zito had worked in the tourism industry, he had virtually no formal education. We're hoping that once he's completed his diploma, Zito will bring his skills back to the island. This is a first for Mozambique, and he's a great source of inspiration for local schoolchildren. "

Building the resort must have been a massive project. Did you have to bring in outside builders?

"We employed a local builder from Vilanculos, who placed a great emphasis on employing islanders and empowering them through training. Everything here was built by hand, and all the basic materials were brought in by local Dhows. At one stage we had over 400 men and women working on site with over 250 from Benguerra Island.

"Mozambique's construction industry is booming and by giving people valuable woodworking and building skills, we gave them new ways to generate income."

What environmental conservation projects are you involved in?

"We employ a full-time marine biologist to work with the Bazaruto National Park in its conservation efforts. The marine park is underfunded, and has a lack of training, expertise and knowledge, so we're helping to set up new projects.

"We are currently involved in monitoring dugongs [a rare aquatic mammal], the protection of bird habitats, coral reef and fish catch monitoring, and are exploring turtle conservation possibilities.

"We're also looking into various viable guest experiences, so people staying with us can learn about, and appreciate more of, this incredible environment by witnessing turtles nesting, or tracking the endangered dugong. "

Could you tell me more about your conservation work with the dugongs?

"The Bazaruto Archipelago has the last viable population of dugongs on the East African coast. Until recently they weren't being monitored and, as dugong meat is highly prized in places like Maputo, they were in very real danger of extinction.

"We are formimg the Dugong Protection Foundation which, in addition to tracking and monitoring dugongs, will also be involved in education of the local community. We had an underwater video in the local language, and people have come to understand a bit more about these shy sea creatures.

"Local fisherman are now aware that it's a crime to kill dugongs, and if caught they could face up to six years in jail. They also realise the dugong's importance in the tourism industry, and as everyone knows, what's good for the tourists is good for the island - as it brings in more money."

You mentioned fishing earlier, are people allowed to fish within the marine reserve?

"Yes, fishing is the main source of income for about 80 percent of the local population. During the war in Mozambique, a lot of people fled to the islands. There are currently around 1 600 people living on Benguerra, and the increasing number of people is causing more pressure on the environment.

"A few of the fishermen also use dragnets, which is incredibly destructive as the lead weights churn up the bottom of the ocean, damaging the delicate seagrass beds.

"We wanted to set up a no-fishing zone in front of Azura, to allow the in-shore fish stocks to recover. The whole community was involved in the decision and, understandably, the islanders were initially a bit hesitant.

"We provide the seven net owners with compensation, as the lack of rainfall and poor quality of soil on the island make it difficult to grow crops, and thus they are highly reliant on the overfished marine environment.

"That was in November 2006, and since then the fish populations have improved immensely. There are far more fish to go round, and everyone is now very happy with the arrangement. We have even reached an agreement to double the no-fishing area."

Talking about the lack of rainfall, do you have any water or energy-saving strategies in place?

"Benguerra Island is a unique and very delicate environment which could so easily be destroyed. Before starting construction we did a full Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA), in order to obtain our environmental licence.

"We have a management plan for waste removal and a sewage treatment plant. All grey water is treated on site, and about 90 percent is recycled and used for irrigation.

"In addition to carefully monitoring water usage, we've also cut down on energy consumption by installing solar powered showers in all our villas."

I read on your website that you joined the Carbon Neutral Company in the UK.

"Yes, this was a huge project involving a detailed process for calculating our total carbon emissions.

"We are setting up tree replanting programmes to offset our carbon footprint. We also compensate for our emissions by purchasing carbon credits, thereby investing in projects which make use of renewable energy sources and reduce greenhouse gases."

The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as: "Responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people."

From the moment Christopher started talking, it was clear he has a genuine love for this remote corner of the world that he and his wife Stella have decided to call home.

True, there are some lodges which are jumping on the eco band-wagon, but there are others that are making a significant difference.

So next time you're thinking of booking into a luxurious eco-retreat, check out their green credentials. That way you can stretch out next to your private pool completely relaxed and guilt-free.

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