Essential Overberg and Whale Coast Advice | Africa Travel Newsletter

by Emma Gass, 27 June 2008

A road trip is the perfect way to explore the Overberg's empty country roads and its Whale Coast. About an hour's drive over the mountains (berg being mountain in Afrikaans) from Cape Town, this beautiful area of rural charm is easily accessible in the most budget of rental cars.

In fact, you could probably tour most of the area in a day - but then you would surely miss the real point of this engaging part of South Africa, which is its natural beauty, the slow pace of life and the friendly locals.

After a few days spent in the area recently, my advice to others wanting to do the same is: get out of your car!

The distances between towns in the Overberg and along the Whale Coast are not far so you'll have ample time to stop and smell the fynbos without losing valuable driving time. After all, you need to slow down to match the pace of life in the unchanging towns, villages and farms of the Overberg.

Stop for Supplies

An essential part of any road trip is what we South African's like to call "padkos" translated as "road food" - those snacks that you nibble on as you watch the patchwork landscapes float by your car window. The best places to stock up on said padkos are at the various farm stalls (or padstals) dotted around this southern area. It's worth stopping at as many as possible, as each will specialise in something different.

Stop at Houw Hoek on the N2 for homemade chicken pies and fresh apple juice, and Dassies Fontein further down the road, for anything from enamel teapots to cast-iron stoves, and traditional food around a cosy fireplace.

Walk to the Southern Tip of Africa

It's quite possible to drive through the town of Cape Agulhas to the southernmost tip of Africa and leave wondering if you've been trapped like a tourist.

However, park your car at the candy-striped lighthouse and walk the 1km rocky, coastal road to arrive at the very end of the great African continent windswept and invigorated. Return to the warmth of the Agulhas Lighthouse tearoom feeling like you've just seen the edge of the world.

Arniston by Bike

We awoke in Arniston the next morning to the sun rising over the blue bay in front of us and reflecting off the white-washed walls of Arniston's cottages. Wasting no time we rushed out, on bicycles provided by the Arniston Hotel, to explore the seaside town and to find the famous Waenhuiskrans cave - the namesake of this town otherwise known as Waenhuiskrans.

The Waenhuiskrans cave is only accessible at low tide by picking your way over land-locked pools filled with colourful sea anemones and tiny, confused fish looking for the ocean; and then clambering pirate-style through the small opening at the rear of the cave to the enormous, dark interior.

Local Hospitality

The advantage of swapping engine power for pedal power is the healthy appetite one develops. So we happily wandered the short distance to Tannie (Aunty) Betsie's cottage, in the traditional fishing area of Kassiesbaai, for lunch.

Having lived in Kassiesbaai all her life as a fisherman's wife and mother; Tannie Betsie's ability to fill a room with aromatic cooking smells, to make delicious fresh fishcakes, tell stories of life in this national monument of a town and to offer a warm, embracing smile is a well-practised art.

Cross Country Drive

The drive across to De Kelders on the edge of the whale-breeding waters of Walker Bay provides many opportunities to stop and stray from your car.

Travel back through the agricultural town of Bredasdorp, stopping to poke around the shipwreck museum and old church grounds, and along the straight, fynbos-lined roads. We made a special stop to creep up on a large gathering of slender blue cranes congregating around a farm dam and another stop to taste wine.

With few wine estates in the area the welcome is all the more genuine. Wines were tasted, wine techniques discussed and we were even lucky enough to consider the delicate aromas of future vintages, straight from the barrel.

Elim

One of the main advantages of this cross country drive is passing through the old mission station of Elim - blink as you drive through and you would be forgiven for missing this portal through time.

Elim is a community unchanged for centuries, complete with mud-brick houses, thatched roofs, unpaved roads and small town friendliness. A hamlet best appreciated by getting out of your car and strolling past the children playing in the street and the neighbours chatting in open doorways. You may even be invited in for tea.

Walker Bay

As you near the coast the entire sweep of Walker Bay becomes evident - an enormous, almost circular bay ringed by mountains that extend to the tip of Cape Point.

The residential town of De Kelders sits on the edge of this extraordinary bay and little can beat the view of the sun setting the distant ring of mountains alight as you sip a chilled glass of local wine on the deck of Cliff Lodge.

Apparently in whale season mothers and calves would have congregated below us, but they were hardly missed as we ogled the view before us.

Caving in De Kelders

Waking up to Walker Bay's magnificent view is invigorating. So before reaching for your car keys take a walk along the cliff top, knowing that under your feet the ground is riddled with caves which people have used as shelter for thousands of years.

The walk down to the most famous Klipgat Cave is by way of newly constructed wooden walkways, although the others, like the intriguing Duiwelsgat (Devil's Hole), can only be reached by scrambling over rocks and hillsides reckless adventurer style.

Relaxing Riverside

After an active morning a relaxing lunchtime venue will probably be high on your list of priorities. A few minutes' drive down the road, near Stanford, we recommend Klein River Cheese, which packs a fantastic picnic basket.

Relax on the banks of the peaceful Klein River with a plaid blanket, overflowing basket and a bottle of something picked up on your travels.

Take your time. Little will change quickly in the Overberg.