Exploring Kenya's Amboseli National Park

by Leigh Kemp, 21 January 2008

Amboseli National Park is dominated by the brooding presence of Mount Kilimanjaro rising into the clouds above the plains.

Amboseli is postcard Africa - possibly providing Africa's most famous image.

Beyond the image, however, lies the story of Africa in the 21st century. Man's impact on the environment, global warming and cultural identity are part of the Amboseli story.

What is Amboseli?

Amboseli National Park is a wildlife haven! The heartbeat of the park is the Amboseli Marsh, a life-giving feature that draws wildlife to its grass and water.

Elephants and buffalo wallow and feed in the marsh and predators stalk the open plains - but there is another, more sinister aspect to the park.

Amboseli is the most utilised park in East Africa after the Masai Mara. However, due to its much smaller size, the ravages of high impact tourism are greater.

Parts of the park resemble a dustbowl - due to indiscriminate off-road driving by guides wanting to get high-paying guests the best views at sightings.

On my most recent trip it was obvious, however, that something was being done to lessen the damage - there was less off-road driving and parts of the park were recovering.

Souls for Sale

A signboard in the grounds of the lodge we were staying at proclaimed five rules including the usual warnings against leaving the lodge grounds without a guide and informing of the danger posed by wild animals - but topping the list was an ominous warning regarding the Maasai.

It simply read: 'Do not photograph the Maasai!'

I have always asked permission before photographing people or sensitive subjects but here was a place where the Maasai were everywhere - they were almost a part of the decor.

On the afternoon of our arrival at the aforementioned lodge I was attempting to photograph the lodge interior but soon gave up when a 'warrior' insisted on moving into the frame each time I set up an image.

Apparently all I needed to do was ask his permission to photograph him and he would have agreed for a fee.

Amboseli is where it really struck me how western ideals silently creep into the proudest of cultures.

Global Warming and the Ice Cap

Kilimanjaro is renowned for its ice cap - picture postcards have immortalized the image. Beyond the postcard image, however, is the reality of the dangers facing the earth today.

The ice cap has shrunk in the past decade, giving rise to calls that global warming is responsible. Other scientists claim that the melting of the ice cap is due to other factors such as deforestation on the slopes of Kilimanjaro whereby less moisture is produced to form the ice cap.

Whatever the reason for the melting, Amboseli is in a potential crisis as the park relies on the runoff from the mountain to feed the swamp, which in turn is a haven for the animals of the park.

Man and the Environment

The Maasai once watered their cattle in the swamps of the present day Amboseli, but due to clashes between man and wildlife the park was gazetted a national park and the Maasai were moved onto the surrounding areas.

Boreholes were sunk in these areas to provide water for the Maasai and their cattle. Recently reports have surfaced of the Maasai tribesmen allowing safari operators to set up lodges on their land.

This could spell disaster for Amboseli as more safari vehicles mean more damage to this already over-utilised area.

Amboseli is one of Africa's most popular game parks - being scenically spectacular and game-rich - but it is also one of the most endangered wilderness areas due to human and climatic factors.

In danger from many sides, Amboseli needs more than common sense to prevail in ensuring its existence for the future.

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