The Other Side of the Islands

1 June 2006

by Patrick Madden

The real magic of the Indian Ocean islands lies far beneath the glossy surface of the travel magazine holiday. But how deep do we dig, and for how coarse gold?

The Indian Ocean islands, as we all know, are tiny outcroppings of granitic or volcanic rock, carpeted by lush jungle, in an azure expanse of warm ocean. White sands, tiny waves lapping the shore, and verdant foliage to camouflage the amorous locals.

Tranquil yet vibrant, pristine and unspoiled, with fruity cocktails decorated by impractical umbrellas: for whomever is content to absorb what they are offered, the essence of the Indian Ocean islands can be distilled in two words: island paradise.

This is not a stark misconception. The Seychelles islands of Silhouette, Praslin, and La Digue are fine examples of the kind of pinch-me-I'm-dreaming, palm tree paradises that tourists regularly experience in the Indian Ocean islands.

Tourists walk on the white sand, swim in the blue sea, gaze in awe at the psychedelic fish. Then - satisfied, mystified - they depart. Few look back, and fewer still peer beneath the travel brochure experience, the supernaturally slick service of a five-star Mauritian hotel, and wonder about the other side of the Indian Ocean islands that they never glimpsed, or even imagined to exist.

Buried treasure

Along with unicorns and dragons, most travellers to the Indian Ocean islands have consigned the idea of piratesâ€˜ buried treasure to the wastebasket of childhood imagination. But a genuine treasure hunt has been on for many years now, seeking the treasure of the pirate Olivier Le Vasseur (â€˜La Buse' â€" the Buzzard).

Le Vasseur, a notorious French pirate of the 18th century, was responsible for ruining scores of ill-fated mariners in the Indian Ocean. His finest haul was the cargo of a royal Portuguese ship, which he plundered while it lay in Réunion harbour. The loot included the Fiery Cross of Goa (encrusted with all manner of jewels, and so heavy it took three men to lift).

When Le Vasseur was arrested and hanged in Mauritius in 1730, he threw documents into the crowd, charging the spectators to find his treasure if they could. In 1949, those documents may have come into the hands of Reginald Cruise-Wilkins, who set off on a quest to find the treasure.

Convinced it lay beneath Mahé, he scoured the underwater caves off Bel Ombre. Tantalising clues were unearthed - bits of china, marks in the rock, a bull's horn - but ultimately the search was in vain, and Cruise-Wilkins died in 1977 without having found the treasure. His sons, Seychellois locals, and many other treasure hunters continue the quest to this day.

Réunion

Much less popular as a tourist destination than its close neighbour Mauritius or its equatorial cousin Seychelles, Réunion is visited mostly by the French, for whom the island remains a home away from home. However, despite being almost entirely francophone, the population of Réunion has a cultural identity all its own.

If cultural and religious convergence (metissage in the lingua franca) is rife in Mauritius and Seychelles, it has been the order of the last four centuries in Réunion. Originally composed of Frenchmen and Malagasy, Réunion society began in the 17th century as a meld of those two ethnic heritages. Since then, a huge diversity of groups has contributed to the present day Réunionnais ethnic and cultural melange.

Meltdown

The importation of slaves from East Africa and Madagascar in the 18th century created a society where blacks outnumbered whites. While some whites were pauperised through the perpetual subdivision of familial landholdings, economic power remained largely white-owned. More indentured workers were brought from India, China and Yemen, with free Chinese immigrants following them.

Today Réunionnais society is dominated more by métis (people of mixed origins) than by any distinct ethnic group. Although economic power remains disproportionately white-owned, there are very few racial tensions; today the Réunnionais are differentiated more by creed than by colour.

The colours of magic

Réunion's religions are just as diverse as its inhabitants' origins, and they have been only slightly less affected by the assimilation and homogenisation that shaped the island's current ethnicity.

Hindu beliefs on Réunion originated with Indian immigrants who erected shrines to Hindu deities near the cane plantations they worked. In annual celebrations, worship of the Hindu goddess Mariamman is often combined with the Virgin Mary, while Krishna's birthday is combined with that of Jesus Christ. The Catholic Saint Expédit, though unrecognised by the Vatican, is recognised by Réunionnais Hindus as an incarnation of Kali.

Catholicism has also developed its own style in Réunion, with markedly Hindu practices as well as Buddhist rituals observed by self-styled Catholics. Sorcery and superstition also have their place; gris-gris practitioners and traditional healers are numerous on Réunion.

Despite the nominal exclusivity of many of these religions, they co-exist on Réunion in a peaceful and diverse coalescence of organised religion, free spirituality and occult mysticism. For a striking glimpse of the Réunionnais assortment of religious art and sculpture, try to see the colourful Bois Rouge Tamil Temple in St-André.

Seychelles

Seychelles is first prize among all island destinations, for one reason - the beaches are better (read: unsurpassed). Mauritian beaches, although excellent, don't quite match the flawlessly white sands that curve around little blue bays of exquisite, tiny marine-life in Seychelles.

Everyone knows that.

But because of its disjointed history, the island nation is also a melting pot of races, cultures and religions. The individual grips of exclusive practices are loosening in Seychelles, as racial differences are increasingly ignored and religious and cultural ceremonies intermingle. What results is a fascinating melange of traditions from India, Europe, and Africa.

Gris-gris

Gris-gris is a local brand of black magic, akin to voodoo, practiced in Seychelles. Bonnomn (male) or bonnfamn dibwa (female) practitioners of gris-gris can protect you from the evil eye, aid you in your career or love life, or exact revenge upon your enemies. They use love potions or gris-gris (bags with nefarious contents) to manifest their intentions.

Those elements of gris-gris that might be dismissed as baseless superstition are complemented by a sound knowledge of herbal medicines; Seychellois used the Madagascar periwinkle long before Western scientists applied it (with massive success) as a cure for leukaemia. Seychellois flora is a treasure-chest of medicinal herbs and flowers.

Gris-gris is taken seriously by older Seychellois, while the youth will often make use of bonnomn love potions for romantic endeavours. It's a secretive practice, so you'll not see any evidence of it unless you make active investigations, but you can see a canned gris-gris exhibition in the National History Museum on Mahé.

The best of the best

On Mahé you can explore the cultural, the historical, and the culinary delights of the Seychelles. There are some beautiful trails around the island, and at least one excellent restaurant â€" the Boat House at Beau Vallon Beach (not too expensive, with lovely Creole food and a great atmosphere). The Jardin du Roi, an exotic restored spice garden, is home to a range of stunning tropical flowers.

Mahé is undoubtedly beautiful, and has some lovely beaches, but it's still not the best of the best. If you're seeking unsurpassed beach paradise, MahÃ� will be only a stop-over on your journey to the further-flung islands of Seychelles - among them, Praslin and La Digue.

The best way of getting between the islands is not by plane, but by boat. There are at least two boat charter companies on Mahé, which provide you with the most romantic way to shuttle around between the outcroppings of granite on the pearlescent Indian Ocean. Go straight to La Digue without passing go.

La Digue is an island, you'll notice, of very few cars. This makes for a charming and rustic holiday experience, but one that nevertheless retains a few smatterings of the glossy commercialism you'll doubtless try to avoid like the plague. The best way to get around La Digue is under your own steam â€" by bicycle. Up and around the island are many tiny and magical spots to be discovered.

Once you've had your fill of La Digue, sail to Praslin, where the best beaches in the known universe await the impression of your awestruck footprints. The names of the beaches (whisper them) are Anse Lazio and Anse Georgette. The latter is marginally better because it has to be walked to, but either beach will leave you certain that you'll never again find anything quite so gorgeous.