Inside Cape Town

Last month we were ... Keeping dry

by Jonathan Andrews, 1 June 2006

When it rains, it pours and the torrential deluges Cape Town experienced in May are testament to that. So, with the cable car and boat trips around the harbour looking like less appealing options, I ask myself, 'what is one to do in Cape Town when it rains?'

The answer is indoor activities, naturally, and we're fortunate enough to have plenty of easily accessible and very informative museums in Cape Town.

The Iziko Museums include the National Gallery, the South African Museum and Planetarium and the Slave Lodge Museum all within easy walking distance of each other in the Company Gardens.

I thought I'd use one rainy Saturday to educate myself.

A Unique Community

I'm embarrassed to admit it, but even though I've lived in Cape Town for nearly my entire life, I had never been to Bo-Kaap before. Which is even more of a disgrace when I consider that I can see it from the Go2Africa offices!

It's a wonderful thing to fall in love with your city again. As my little car struggled up the Bo-Kaap's steep and narrow roads, I looked through the drizzle at the brightly painted terraced houses lining the wet cobbled streets and smiled to myself. There's a special harmony about this part of town.

The mosques jammed in-between houses and little corner cafes make for a unique character in the area, which is a true melange of east and west.

Artisans & Trades' People

The Bo-Kaap Museum is in one of the oldest buildings in the old Malay Quarter, dating back to 1768. It's small and very well maintained. Rather than being a 'period' house with all sorts of copper kettles on the walls and cordoned-off antique furniture, it's a living social history museum.

The pictures and a few artifacts tell the story of the arrival of the first Muslims in the Cape and their contribution to the city as artisans and trades' people.

Times of Change

Cape Malays have lived in Bo-Kaap since the late 18th century. 'Malay' is actually a bit of a misnomer. It comes from the language Melayu that was spoken on the trade routes between Madagascar and China. It gives the impression that Cape Muslims are of Malaysian descent, which isn't the case.

The apartheid Group Areas Act of 1950 meant that certain racial groups were forced to live in demarcated areas. The Bo-Kaap was set aside for Cape Muslims. The residents of nearby District Six weren't quite so fortunate. They were forcibly removed and relocated during the late 1970s.

The museum has a small display about Tatamkhulu Afrika (meaning 'grandfather Africa' in Xhosa). He was an award-winning poet and writer who lived in the Bo-Kaap for many years during apartheid. The main themes in his writing concern the liberation struggle and marginalisation in South Africa.

You get a sense of the energy he must have felt living in this area. It's quite frenetic, yet peaceful.

Bo-Kaap Today

The area has become quite sought after since 1991 when apartheid restrictions dictating where people could live were abolished.

I can easily see why. It's only minutes from the CBD and the views are outstanding. Even in the rain I could not resist having a wander through the streets, there's an aura of pride that permeates the whole place. It's wonderful and definitely worth a look.

Even More Water

I don't know what it is about museums that makes me hungry. I got into my car and headed down the road to the nearby Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. A samoosa seemed an appropriate thing to eat, and I enjoyed one from a vendor in the craft shed.

I then took a walk to the Two Oceans Aquarium, which is home to over 3 000 different marine species.

Two Oceans Meet

The aquarium showcases the amazing biodiversity of the Indian and Atlantic oceans in 2 distinct exhibits. The Indian Ocean's warmer waters lend themselves to more psychedelic species like clownfish, anemones and coral.

From the cold Atlantic you'll see translucent jellyfish glowing violet under UV lights, otherworldly crustaceans and the strange cuttlefish, whose eyes migrate curiously around their heads!

A centrally located kelp forest brings a type of zen to the place. Sitting and watching the stems swaying gently back and forth through dappled light with silver fish circling is quite mesmerising.

What Big Teeth You Have

The centrepiece is the predator exhibit. Ragged-toothed sharks, tuna, yellowtail and a loggerhead turtle circle the 2-million litre tank. A walk through the tunnel will get you as close as you can be without actually getting wet - which, incidentally, can be arranged!

The fish in the predator tank are fed every day at 3.30pm. The tank becomes frantic as the fish churn up the water, greedily devouring the morsels that are dropped from the surface.

Sharks have slower metabolisms, so they are only fed once a week - on Sundays at the same time. Divers swim into the tank from the top and feed the sharks off long sticks which look rather like big fish kebabs.

Bring the Kids

There's plenty to keep children entertained too. Touch-and-feel exhibits allow them to get to grips with life in a rock pool and there's an activity centre with a viewing window into the Cape fur seal enclosure.

In addition to fish, the aquarium also boasts a breeding African penguin colony. You'll see them on the river walk as well as fresh water fish in the 'river'.

Key to the City

The Cape Town Pass is a cost-effective way to see many of the attractions in Cape Town. You'll get free access to over 60 great attractions in and around the Mother City including the aquarium, the Bo-Kaap Museum and boat cruises, as well as discounts at shops and restaurants.

Article © Copyright 2006 Go2Africa.

Print this page |  Send to a friend

Related content