Kruger for everyone

Reflections on the value of safari

by Leigh Kemp, 1 May 2007

Dawn

The dawn was leading into the day as I drove through Numbi Gate into the Kruger Park. A little way up the road I stopped to listen and to scent the wilderness, from the dewy damp grass to a heady mixture of vegetation. This is one of my favourite parts of the wilderness experience. My thoughts began to wander and in the distant silence I imagined a lion roar echoing across the plains and through the valleys.

The sun was soon spraying through the trees and I decided to move on. I began to notice the colours and patterns of the surroundings. Shades of green and brown, smudged on a landscape formed by the seasons, played across my mind.

The sharp scent of elephant dung and urine smashed my senses. At this time of the year it was enhanced by the sour-sweet smell of the marula fruits that form a large part of the elephants' diet. There was a crack of a branch up ahead, and as I moved closer I caught sight of the grey flashes of a breeding herd of elephants moving slowly away into the thick bush.

The park

The Kruger National Park is one of the world's foremost wildlife reserves. Sadly, there is a side to it that does not receive the prominence in tourism brochures that luxury safari lodges in and around the Kruger enjoy. This leads many people to believe that the Kruger Park is inaccessible to all but those with a large budget. This view is far from the truth.

The first tourists to the Kruger Park arrived in the 1920's and were accommodated in rustic huts at the present-day Pretoriuskop, Satara and Skukuza restcamps. Today the park has twelve restcamps and five bush camps allowing easy access for visitors wanting to appreciate the wilderness without having to break the bank. The restcamps have a range of accommodations from camping facilities to comfortable chalets. Each restcamp has a shop that supplies the necessities, a restaurant and a 24-hour power supply.

Kruger in your own time

A network of 2600 km of well maintained tarmac and gravel roads provides visitors with the opportunity to explore one of the world's natural heritage wonders in their own time and in their own vehicles. The direct route from the northern-most gate, Pafuri, to the southern-most gate, Crocodile Bridge, is over 400 km long and traverses numerous eco-zones and geographic regions.

The Kruger Park is not only about the 'big five', as marketed by the glossy brochures of the private safari lodges, but rather a living museum of animals, plants, landscapes and archaeological sites. Whereas in the private lodges you are bound to view what the guide deems important, and governed by the needs of other guests, self-driving in the Kruger Park allows you to set your own pace.

Why self-drive when you can stay at a lodge and have everything at your beck and call? There is a sense of freedom in being able to set your own times to wake up, drive and eat, and to determine your own route, without having to worry about getting back in time for meals.

I will sometimes stay out the whole day without rushing from place to place, spending a lot of time at sightings, and stopping at hides and picnic spots to stretch and take in the atmosphere. Many of the most dramatic incidents have happened when spending time at sightings, often long after the initial drama has passed and other vehicles have moved off.

Morning: sightings

I identified many birds including the beautiful Lilac Breasted Roller and the undertaker-like Marabou Stork. And then the light of the morning passed into the heat. I had lost track of time so caught up was I in the intimate embrace of this magical wilderness area.

I had a great sighting of two white rhino grazing very close to the road, and crossed the paths of zebra, giraffe, wildebeest and more elephant before stopping to stretch my legs on a hill looking out over the African landscape.

Night drives and walking trails

There is a belief that night drives and wilderness walks can only be experienced at private lodges. This is not true as the park offers both at most restcamps and at a reasonable rate. The outings are led by park rangers. For those who want to experience the wilderness on foot the Kruger Park is renowned for its Walking Trails. Overnight trails led by professional guides operate in various parts of the park, and a Kruger Walking Trail is considered by many as one of the top safari activities in Africa.

The power of mystery

On one of my trips to Kruger I came across a scene where there were a few vultures sitting in some trees a distance off the road. I could not see what they were waiting on but I deduced that there was a kill and, due to the fact that the vultures were waiting patiently in the tree, the predator was still feeding on the carcass.

If the carcass had been deserted by the predator then the vultures would be on the ground feeding. A feeling of disappointment at not being able to see the action was replaced by a heightened sense of excitement as I realized that the wilderness was holding something secret from me. I could not just barge in and lay claim to everything. Thinking on this idea I realized that at the private lodges the guide would have driven off the road to see what was happening. This secret side, the idea of not knowing, excited me.

Afternoon: shadows

The shadows were lengthening as I headed toward the park gate. The heat had lost its harshness and the landscape was bathed in a gentle light. I saw many animals including a big male lion that was not very co-operative. He was lying in the shade of a tree in thick grass and would provide a sneak preview every now and then when he rolled over.

The Kruger National Park caters for all interests, from camping to high-end luxury and from walking safaris to wellness treatments. Visitors will often combine a walking or camping safari with a stay at a luxury lodge.

The area around the Kruger Park also offers a rich and varied experience. The diversity of scenery, historical towns and culture allow visitors to plan a truly unique holiday. This is the magic that is the Kruger. It may be the only reserve in Africa to offer such variety of attractions and accommodations.

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