by Jane Broughton, 6 January 2009

Our guide is holding the dry remains of a dung ball. "The dung beetle moulds a brood ball out of fresh dung and the female lays an egg inside it," he explains. "On hatching, the larva feeds on the nutrient-rich dung, pupates and emerges in search of fresh dung to start the process all over again."

I'm on a 5-day walking safari through the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, adjacent to the Kruger National Park, and increasingly the fascination lies in the details: spider webs, bird calls and enigmatic animal tracks - and one morning we are rewarded with the distinctive rasping call of a nearby leopard.

If you've ticked off the Big 5 then this is undoubtedly the best way to experience the bush: immerse yourself in its sights, sounds and smells.

Indeed, as the days go by we learn about bush culture, Shangaan folklore, tracking skills, invertebrates, and the medicinal uses of plants. We search for the signs - tracks, rubbing posts and dung - left by larger animals that convey all manner of information.

This is all rather difficult to appreciate from the lofty perspective of a safari vehicle; to be on foot however is altogether different - at once exciting and daunting.

Unlike on game drives, animals are generally wary of humans walking through the bush but we have decent sightings of kudu, impala, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest - and the thought that we may run into something larger and toothier is never far from our minds.

A tracker shows us how to study the ground with an informed eye, and cues us to ask questions. In which direction was the animal walking? Is this the front or the back pad? As we learn to distinguish between a genet, civet, mongoose, jackal and leopard, it becomes addictive and, in a light-hearted sense, rather competitive.

As with any other safari activity guest safety is paramount. Groups are limited to eight, assisted by an experienced guide, armed ranger and tracker. Basic walking protocol is spelt out on the first day and the guides use a common code of calls and hand signals.

However, let me set the record straight for those who may be daunted by the thought of traipsing through the wilderness: this trip is most definitely for sissies.

Carrying nothing besides your camera and plied with chilled mineral water, you don't have to share tents or negotiate dodgy bucket showers in the semi-dark - instead crawl gratefully between candyfloss-soft sheets in the sort of 5-star lodges that have become synonymous with the Sabi Sands.

And it's not just about luxurious lodges: the 66 000 ha of the Sabi Sands - a jigsaw puzzle of woodland, savannah and forest - is renowned Big 5 country and at the top of any safari connoisseur's wish list.

Each day you set off at first light accompanied by a ranger and tracker from the host lodge and walk for a few hours before relaxing over an al fresco breakfast. This ranges from a sit-down affair complete with waiter service to a picnic-style feast beneath a giant tree - it's champagne, bacon and eggs, croissants and fresh coffee all the way.

After breakfast, the walk continues to a prearranged meeting point, where the ranger and tracker from the destination lodge take over. Arriving at the next lodge at midday, there is plenty of time to settle in, take a nap and enjoy lunch before an afternoon game drive.

What the morning walks lack in predator and big game action, the afternoon drives make up for in close encounters with the likes of elephant, buffalo, lion, cheetah and, of course, the famous Sabi leopards.

Indeed, the day we arrived at Kirkman's Kamp, a herd of 100 or more elephants was crossing the Sand River just below camp. Our party was delighted, as the day before our ranger had cautiously taken a wide berth around a breeding herd.

Later we followed a female leopard to a kill hidden beneath a bush and an inquisitive bull elephant came so close to our vehicle that his trunk was practically in my lap.

Regular safari-goers would be unlikely to spend a single night at a lodge so I enjoy this opportunity to sample a variety in one trip. Overall, the standard of accommodation and food is high, and as with all top-end properties, the only thing that sets one apart from the next is the level of service and attention to detail.

On the one hand, it's unfair to judge a lodge based on a one-night stay; a longer stay gives you time to absorb the unique culture of a particular venue and connect with individual staff members. But if you believe in first impressions, transitory stays are also revealing of the strengths and weaknesses of each place.

As we ended the safari my thoughts turned increasingly to matters environmental. Leaving a light footprint on the earth is in the collective consciousness of informed, adventurous travellers and walking is the most eco-friendly safari option: minimal impact on the bush and limited carbon emissions from vehicles.

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Article © Copyright 2009 Go2Africa.

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