by Leigh Kemp, 20 December 2007

The Maasai are the most photographed tribal people in Africa and are as important to an East African safari as lions and elephants.

Although development through tourism has begun to change some aspects of their lives, they nevertheless manage to live a life close to the land and their traditional culture.

Today the Maasai are trapped in a contradiction - living their ancient culture by walking the wilderness herding their livestock, while at the same time taking occasional breaks to speak on their cellphones.

The Great Migration

The Maasai are from the Maa speaking tribes that moved south from the lower Nile valley during the 15th century. They are now the southern-most Nilotic peoples in Africa and by the mid-nineteenth century they occupied an area stretching from Mount Marsabit in northern Kenya to Dodoma in south-central Tanzania.

Although historically nomadic, the Maasai have been forced to lead a more sedentary lifestyle because of shrinking grazing lands due to farming and growth in tourism.

Today some Masai villages rely almost solely on tourism for their survival. The governments of Kenya and Tanzania are attempting to get the Maasai to agree to living in fixed areas.

The Maasai's grazing lands are shrinking due to the growth in tourism as some of the elders lease land to safari companies. Although they are allowed to graze their cattle in these leased areas, their freedom of movement has been curtailed.

Nevertheless, it's not unusual to see red-blanketed Maasai tending their cattle in some of Africa's great wilderness areas such as the Masai Mara, Serengeti and even the Ngorongoro Crater.

During a recent trip to the Masai Mara, we came across two young Maasai boys herding their cattle homewards and I asked the guide about the age of the boys.

He explained that generally boys fend the stock and men defend the tribe from intruders but today, as the danger from intrusion is now almost non-existent, it's not unusual to see young and old alike looking after the herds.

Cattle of God

Cattle play a central role in Maasai society where it is believed that God gave the Maasai all the cattle in the world to look after. Cattle are still a symbol of wealth in Maasai culture although goats and sheep have become more prevalent in recent years.

Wealth in stock passes through to the polygamous practice in Maasai culture where a man can have as many wives as befits his wealth in livestock.

Cattle are important in the diet of the Maasai as milk mixed with cow's blood is a staple diet.

Government, Culture and Religion

Laws passed by the Kenyan government have affected important parts of the Maasai culture. The carrying of shields has been banned as they are symbols of war.

Female circumcision has also been banned, although it is still practiced in secret in some areas of the region.

The killing of male lions by Maasai warriors as part of the initiation into manhood has been outlawed by the governments of Kenya and Tanzania.

Although the Maasai keep close to their cultures, westernisation is becoming more of a threat as more of the children head off to larger centres to be schooled ... and learn western ideals.

The Maasai, as with most Maa peoples, believe in a creator god who dwells in everything on earth. Although traditional beliefs are still strong, Christianity is making strides into the cultures.

The Future

The governments of Kenya and Tanzania are involved in a drive to limit the nomadic lifestyles of indigenous people in a move to develop more land for agriculture. Although touched by westernisation, the Maasai still keep, in great part, to their traditional way of life.

One of the most defining moments of the two-week journey through East Africa was seeing a Maasai warrior in iconic pose, except for one small difference - he had a cellphone to his ear.

Such is the wonder that is Africa today. The Maasai can be Maasai but still share in the technology that the rest of the world enjoys.

Travel Fact File

Leigh Kemp spent two weeks in East Africa in November where he experienced the great wilderness areas of Kenya and Tanzania such as Serengeti and Masai Mara.

It was here that he learnt more about the Maasai culture.

Article © Copyright 2007 Go2Africa.

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