Making the Most of the Garden Route

by Emma Gass, 21 April 2008

The Garden Route is a pretty straightforward label for a beautiful stretch of road that runs along South Africa's east coast. But most people are unprepared for the size of things in Africa, and her garden is no exception.

This is no pretty, manicured garden path, but an inspiring journey along a rugged, wave-battered coastline, guarded by the majestic Outeniqua mountain range.

Endless stretches of golden sand are found surprisingly close to inland lakes, shimmering wetlands and lazy estuaries. Bridges cross deep, scarring gorges conjuring up images of adrenaline junkies who seek out the world's highest commercial bungee jump at Bloukrans Gorge.

South Africa's garden is planted with robust fynbos (a plant type unique to the Cape area) and the enormous, ancient hardwoods of the Tsitsikamma Forest, part of the largest indigenous forest in South Africa - although at over 60 000 ha it's a fraction of its original size.

When I got the chance recently to spend a few days on the Garden Route, I was determined to make the most of this enchanted garden by getting back to the basics of what this beautiful region is all about - nature and scenery; the creatures that make this area so unique; good food and relaxation and of course, a bit of adventure!

Road Trip

The Garden Route is made for driving. For a start it follows one main road from Cape Town heading east towards Port Elizabeth, allowing more time to enjoy the sweeping coastal views and shimmering waters, and less time for getting lost.

The point is to stop at the farmer's markets and quaint craft stalls, to venture down the interesting-looking side roads and to feel the sand between your toes on as many different beaches as possible - and each time to return to the trusty N2 that won't let you lose your way.

Knysna Heads

As you drive into Knysna, the first thing that you usually become aware of is the mystical translucent light. Natural light reflects from the flat waters of the Knysna Lagoon which spreads out around you as you cross the bridge. Boats bob at jetties and the houses tumble down the hill towards the water's edge.

The second thing you usually notice are the two majestic headlands, known as the "Knysna Heads” that guard the entrance of the lagoon from the Indian Ocean. One of the Heads has been developed and boasts residences and guesthouses with gob-smacking views, while the other has been retained as a nature conservancy and is the recipient of many oooh's, aaahh's and gushes of enthusiasm from those who have visited.

Only accessible by ferry, the Featherbed Nature Reserve provides an easy walk through the lush vegetation offering breathtaking views of the opposite Head, the lagoon, Knysna in the distance and a good look into the various caves that burrow into the sandstone headland.

If, like us, you're caught by a rainy day, a great alternative is a boat cruise on the lagoon. The paddle cruiser is a stylish option as you can stay dry and warm inside, accompanied by your bottle of wine and fabulous food, while the Heads drift past the windows until you almost reach the foaming ocean and have to turn around.

Fun in the Forest

Without the indigenous forest there would be no Garden Route, a pretty coastal route maybe, but for me the ancient and enormous trees epitomise the Garden Route.

Without the forest, there would be no sense of deep dark mystery in the area, there would be no tales of the legendary Knysna elephants and birds like the colourful Knysna Lourie would be without a home.

It was with this in mind that we set off for the Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours, a system of ropes and slides set up high in the forest canopy (hence the name) that allows you to swing from one tree to the next.

Expecting an adrenaline rush of heights, speed and danger, I was rewarded with a real sense of serenity. Yes, it's high (you stand on platforms over 40m off the ground) and yes, you whoop with excitement as you swing between trees, but it's not dangerous and being in the forest quickly becomes the most exciting element.

It's dark and cool in there and the giant ferns rustle gently way below you, the old trees decaying where they fell, are speckled with fungi. We keep our eyes peeled for small buck, bushpig and monkeys but are distracted by the close proximity of the birds - the Jackal Buzzard, the glimpse of a Lourie tail and the tiny Cape White Eyes that could keep me entertained for hours.

Led by our man, Stan, who grew up in this area and has a great knowledge and obvious love for the forest, we learn to tell the difference between the Outeniqua Yellowood, the "Real” Yellowood, the Stinkwood, the Hardpear and the other resident giants. These trees resonate wisdom, as well they should, some of them are well over 300 years old.

Another way to feel the calming effects of the forest is to visit Birds of Eden. Not just for bird-lovers, this free-flight aviary, the largest in the world, feels like a leisurely stroll through a dense, tropical forest - that also happens to have many exotic birds from all over the world. It may also be your one guaranteed chance to see the elusive Knysna Lourie.

Gentle Giants

However much time you spend in the forest, it's highly unlikely that you'll cross paths with any Knysna elephants - the African giants that once roamed the indigenous forest in their hundreds are now entering the pages of myth and legend.

There are conflicting reports about the number of wild elephants that still exist in the depths of the forest, but the fact is that they haven't been seen for years.

In order to honour these gracious creatures and the part they play in the history of the Garden Route, we visited the Crags Elephant Sanctuary just outside Plettenberg Bay. Here young elephants that have been rescued from traps and poachers in Botswana are being rehabilitated.

The unusual experience of walking hand on soft, flexible trunk is one that will stay with you forever. One look into these intelligent, gentle creatures' eyes will have you wondering how they were hunted to extinction on the Garden Route and are still being killed for their tusks in the rest of Africa today.

Whale & Dolphin Spotting

The other giants of the Garden Route, the whales, visit every winter. However, even out of season its worth taking a boat out into the beautiful Plettenberg Bay.

Wedge yourself tightly onto your seat and feel the exhilarating salty spray on your face as you whiz towards the misty Tsitsikamma mountains in the distance, past idyllic, deserted coves.

Hang over the side of the boat as baby tiger sharks swim beneath it, seals hunt in the waves and dolphins play next to you. Both humpback and bottlenose dolphins live along this coast and we were lucky to see pods of both surfing in the waves.

Of course, the Garden Route is famous for its long stretches of sandy beaches which are a perfect vantage point for spotting whales and dolphins. The warm foamy waves are great for swimming in and I have, in the past, found myself bobbing a few metres from dolphins who think similarly.

Appetizing Oysters

Knysna Lagoon is famous for a different Ocean critter, the delectable oyster. Oysters have been cultivated with great success in the tidal estuary for many years and there's no better way to catch your breath on an active Garden Route holiday than to sit in the sun, glass of chilled wine in hand, with a perfect view of the Heads and fresh oysters to gulp.

Readers' Comments:

Have you ever travelled along the Garden Route and if so, what would your suggestions be for making the most of a Garden Route trip?Let us know.

Article © Copyright 2008 Go2Africa.

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