by Patrick Madden, 1 March 2006

One of southern Africa's most hallowed destinations for disciples of sun, sand and sea.

The Mozambican shoreline curves along Africa's east coast from south latitudes 11° to 26° in some 2 500km of the most pristine seashore you'll find on the continent. The beaches along its length are archetypal Indian Ocean paradises, and its shallow reefs are rated among the very best diving spots in the world.

Many of the coastal and island towns are shrouded in old-world atmospheres of rare allure, while other islands offer unparalleled opportunities for bird and game viewing. This is an account of the highlights of the Mozambican coast, from Ponta do Ouro in the south to Ibo Island in the north.

Ponto do Ouro

Ponto do Ouro is a small village just above the southern border of Mozambique. The area's 5 diving sites (coral reefs off the beaches) are extremely popular diving destinations for South African holidaymakers in particular.

Varying in depth from 10 to 40m, the coral is flush with diverse and exotic marine life, including many species of fish, sharks and eels, as well as turtles, dolphins and whales.

The dune forest is also a good birding site, though the area is said not to have been fully cleared of landmines. Enquire before you venture off the well-trodden paths. Chalets, bed-and-breakfasts and campsites are available along or close to the beaches, offering a range of accommodation varying in type, quality, and price.

The best time of year to visit Ponta de Ouro depends on your priorities. For pleasant beach conditions go between April and September when the temperatures are mild and rainfall is low. Snorkelling and diving conditions are excellent year-round but are best between October and April.

Xai-Xai

Situated on the northern bank of the Limpopo River, Xai-Xai (pronounced "shy-shy") suffered particularly badly during the floods of 2000, but staged a near-miraculous recovery as soon as the water levels dropped.

The main points of interest in the otherwise rather plain capital town of the Gaza province are the central markets and the colourful church at the south-east end of town.

Praio de Xai-Xai (the beach of Xai Xai), however, is typical Mozambican paradise - a long, unspoiled stretch of white sand, but fringed by scrub rather than the palms that typify the northern beaches. It offers excellent opportunities for game fishing and snorkelling in the many coral reefs within 6km of the shore.

You might also be interested in visiting the ruined Motel Chonguene on the shore about 4km east of the campsite, or the Wenela tidal pool, about 2km west of the beach loop road, which is linked to the ocean by an underwater blow-hole tunnel (through which you should definitely not try to swim).

Inhambane

The capital of Inhambane province is a lovely old port town with an enchanting old-world and Mediterranean atmosphere. Rich with a history of European trade in ivory and slaves, the present-day Inhambane is a surpassingly serene historical town whose buildings remain in good repair.

Highlights include the beautiful cathedral (situated, of all streets, on the Rua Karl Marx), the busy local market where a variety of food and goods is sold, and a seafront adorned with dhows - particularly gorgeous at sunset.

The town itself lacks a good beach, but many of Mozambique's finest beaches are within 30km of the town, all unspoiled and skirted by tall stands of palm trees.

Bazaruto Archipelago

The Bazaruto Archipelago comprises a string of 6 islands off the Mozambican coast between Vilanculos in the south and Inhassoro in the north.

White-sailed dhows make romantic travellers between the mainland and the islands of the archipelago, whose palm-fringed beaches and lush interiors, replete with wildlife and at least 150 species of birds, thoroughly exemplify the ideal of an Indian Ocean island paradise.

The Bazaruto Archipelago's greatest attractions are found not on its islands but in its seas. From the diving centres on Bazaruto Island and Benguerra Island you can explore one of the world's finest diving destinations in a crystal-clear ocean warmed by the Mozambique Stream.

Myriads of tropical fish aside, divers frequently see humpback whales, marine turtles, humpback and bottlenose dolphins, and large game fish like marlins and barracudas.

Bazaruto Island is the largest and most northerly island of the chain, about 30km in length and an average of 5km wide, with a series of freshwater lakes - homes to crocodiles - near its southern tip. Its beaches are nesting sites for three species of turtle.

Benguerra is the second largest island and, with two upmarket lodges and a campsite, it's the most visited of the Bazaruto Archipelago islands. It boasts many natural attractions, including high sand dunes, freshwater lakes and beautiful beaches with kilometre-long sandbars that are periodically submerged by the tides, and its diverse island vegetation hosts 164 species of birdlife.

The other islands in the Bazaruto Archipelago are Magaruque, situated almost directly opposite Vilanculos; Santa Carolina, a former penal colony; and Bangue, the smallest island, which is uninhabited and receives very few visitors.

Ilha do Mozambique

Probably the oldest European settlement in East Africa, the town of Mozambique is situated on the small coral island of Ilha do Mozambique, which the locals know simply as Ilha (pronounced ilia).

For centuries the island was an Arab and Portuguese trading post and its town the country's capital. More recently, disregard and decades of civil war have left it a hauntingly beautiful ruin, albeit home to at least 15 000 inhabitants.

Having retained much of its original colonial architecture including the menacing ancient fortress of Sao Sebastio and its Church of Nossa Senhora Baluarte, as well as a twice-razed old town, containing the Jesuit College of Sao Paulo, an old palace and a museum of sacred art, the town of Mozambique is probably the most alluringly atmospheric destination in the country.

Pemba

Pemba is a pleasant coastal town on the southern peninsula of Pemba Bay, the second or third-largest natural harbour in the world (its exact ranking being a matter of some debate). Relatively modern and well-maintained, Pemba is the centre of tourism and the capital of Mozambique's northernmost Cabo Delgado province.

The town's geographical isolation means that it gets relatively few visitors. The charms of the town itself are nothing extraordinary, though Paquitiquete, the reed-hut village near the docks, is worth a visit.

However, nothing on the entire Mozambican coast can compare to Pemba Bay, whose beaches are wide, pure white, fringed along their length by palms, and deserted most of the year. A coral reef protects the beach, ensuring safe swimming and excellent snorkelling conditions.

Quirimbas Archipelago

The Quirimbas Archipelago 32 islands are scattered along 100km of Mozambique's northern coastline, from Pemba to Mozambique's northern border at the Rovuma River.

The Querimba National Park - the first in the world to be established at the request of an area's inhabitants - comprises the 11 southernmost islands of the Quirimbas Archipelago.

The park's habitats - 4 of which are officially the most outstanding examples of their habitat types in the world - include coral reefs, sea grass beds, sandy white beaches, mangroves, woodland, savannah, forests, and mountains, and they're home to many of the world's most endangered species, including the extremely rare dugong.

Ibo Island

Ibo on Ibo Island is an ancient and alluring town, surpassed in character only by Mozambique on Mozambique Island, and probably the greatest attraction in the Quirimbas Archipelago.

Ibo receives very few visitors, being isolated and relatively unknown to outsiders, but those who make the effort to visit will likely remember it as a highlight of their visit to Mozambique. Having once been a major centre for trade in ivory and slaves with Portugal, it's now an intriguing and desolate relic.

The villas' roofs are caved-in and their walls slowly but inexorably conquered by marauding vines. Ibo's fatigued and faded colours are particularly notable in their contrast with the saturated hues of the deep-blue sky, the crimson flame trees and the sprawling vegetation that has all but conquered the town.

Article © Copyright 2006 Go2Africa.

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