Scuba Diving Africa

Underwater safaris in the Indian Ocean

1 June 2006

by Jonathan Andrews

Considerable parts of the ocean are inaccessible to most of us. Not having gills is problematic. Learning to use an aqualung is a skill in itself that doesn't come cheaply.

Fortunately, some of Africa's coasts offer some fantastic diving prospects, without you having to be a registered Navy Seal before you touch the water!

Diving in the Indian Ocean is an absolute pleasure. The translucent warm water is teeming with fish and coral of every conceivable size and colour. Shallow and relatively flat conditions around the Mascarenes and Mozambique make it easy for beginners to get a glimpse of life below the waves. All you really need is a pair of goggles, a snorkel and some flippers - and you're off.

Seychelles beyond the beaches

The Seychelles is a group of 115 emerald islands scattered across the sapphire Indian Ocean. Many of these atolls are absolutely pristine and remain uninhabited. The warm sea that surrounds them is a dream come true for any water sports enthusiast.

Fortunately, the Seychelles has had strict conservation policies in place of many years which include several marine parks. As a result, the submarine world around the Seychelles is diverse and abundant.

Some of the more popular dive sights around the Seychelles include the Sainte Anne Marine Park, Bay Ternay Marine Reserve and Saint Pierre, all of which are protected areas.

Above & below

The granitic inner islands rest on a shallow, sandy plateau. The seascape is almost an exact replica of the islands above. Granite boulders form massif peaks from the sandy ocean floor which shelter colourful fish and invertebrates.

The most popular scuba diving sites are near Mahe and Praslin islands. You'll find good diving centers on both.

It is easy snorkeling at the beaches and marine reserves around the inner islands. You won't be able to get as close to the fish, but you should become quite well acquainted with the residents of the shallow sandy flats like rays, urchins, sea cucumbers and octopi.

Vegetarian sharks, almost!

From August to March, you are likely to encounter whale sharks around the inner islands. They can grow up to 15 metres long and weigh in excess of 25 tonnes. There is no need to fear them, they are docile creatures and eat plankton.

Experienced divers should enjoy the area known as Shark Bank. It's a granite outcrop at a depth of 20 to 35 metres between Mahe and Silhouette island and is home to masses of schooling fish and predators.

Ave Maria off Praslin is well known for its variety of marine life including sharks and rays. The conditions are usually suitable for all levels of divers and it has a maximum depth of 26 metres.

Underwater Eden

If you are fortunate enough to get to the outer islands, you won't be disappointed. The unspoilt seas surrounding the coralline atolls are like an underwater Eden.

You'll find more prolific marine life than around the inner islands, including larger species like spotted potato bass, tuna, sharks and sea turtles. Of the more psychedelic varieties, butterfly and angelfish are probably the most recognisable, but keep your eyes peeled for more unusual specimens like puffers and scorpionfish.

Ile Maurice

The lush island of Mauritius is almost completely surrounded by a coral reef, which has been likened to the rain forests for its incredible biodiversity.

Coral forms a unique habitat. The coral itself is a living predatory organism. Small polyps secrete a substance that calcifies into the hard exterior shell. They feed on micro-organisms, and grow on top of dead coral to form reefs.

Like the Seychelles, the diving industry in Mauritius is well established and generally good, although previous practices like spear and dynamite fishing have damaged some of the lagoon habitats and fish life is not as profuse as it once was in some areas. To avoid disappointment, you should always ensure that you are dive with a certified, reputable company.

Amateur astronauts

There are numerous ways to experience Mauritian underwater terrain. Glass-bottomed boats enable you to take a sub aquatic peek without even getting wet.

Another, less conventional approach is something called undersea walking. You walk down a ramp wearing a weightbelt and what looks like a space helmet. Fresh compressed air is pumped into the helmet and slowly filtered out so that you can take a stroll along the sea floor.

There are countless snorkeling opportunities in Mauritius' lagoons and calm seas. As you float in the water, you could almost image yourself as an astronaut in orbit over a strange and colourful planet.

Artificial reefs

Scuba diving is best off the southwestern side of the island, particularly at Flic en Flac.

The underwater topography is varied with many caves, arches and drop-offs. Shipwrecks at Flic en Flac such as the Kei Sei 113 and Tug 11 which sank in the late 1980s provide fantastic artificial reefs that bustle with marine life and make for exciting diving excursions.

Beyond the reef, you'll be likely to see larger species such as hammerhead sharks, marlin and rays.

Diving is possible year-round in sheltered lagoons like Blue Bay. The southern part of the island often has rough seas, which can make diving difficult and dangerous.

Diving in Mozambique

The Bazaruto Archipelago in Mozambique is most people's idea of heaven. For divers, it is a simply one of the best diving locations off the African continent.

The marine life is varied, and it's not overrun with tourists like many other Indian Ocean destinations.

Diving in Mozambique you'll see masses of tropical fish, bottle nose dolphins and a variety of hard and soft corals and sponges. The water is warm and the visibility is excellent.

There are ample snorkeling opportunities on the sand cays. Many of the resorts and hotels like Indigo Bay and Pemba Beach Hotel arrange diving and snorkeling excursions for guests.

On Benguerra Island, Two Mile Reef, a short barrier reef protecting the narrow channel between Bazaruto and Benguerra, offers several completely unspoilt dive sites and superb snorkeling. Its corals support numerous schools of reef fish like fusiliers, coachmen, goldies and snapper.

Off Bazaruto, the Manta Ray Reef shelters many fish at a depth of about 15 metres. The reef also has striking anemone clusters which are home to two types of clownfish.

Great whites

Although the water may be somewhat cooler, and rougher than other parts of the Indian Ocean, the southern part of South Africa's coastline presents some interesting prospects for the more adventurous enthusiast.

Most Cape Town dives should only be undertaken by properly trained scuba divers or with proper supervision, due to rough seas.

However, you can get up close and personal with a great white shark if you choose to do a cage-dive off the coast at Gansbaai, about 160 km from Cape Town.

Shark Alley

Dives take place in the aptly named "Shark Alley" a narrow gulley that runs between Dyer Island and Geyser Rock about 12 km from the mainland. It could possibly be the best place in the world to see great whites.

There are a number of reasons why the sharks are so prevalent in the area. One is the underwater geography. Another is the large supply of ready-meals on the islands in the form of large Cape Fur Seal and African penguin colonies.

You do not need an open water certificate to cage-dive, basic training on how to use the equipment is given. It is relatively safe, just be sure to keep your appendages behind the bars!

Diving Tips

- It's important to avoid touching anything under the water. Coral is alive and very fragile and takes ages to grow.

In addition to damage, some of the fish, particularly the elaborate and colourful ones, are poisonous.

- For your own convenience and comfort, it is best to take your own snorkeling equipment if you can.

- A rash vest and sunscreen are essential. Lying face down just below the surface of the water is a sure way to get burned, and it happens faster than you'd think.

- Good resorts offer dive courses for all levels. If you want to go out alone, you will need to produce an open water certificate.

- Be wary of unscrupulous dive operations, always insist on seeing PADI certificates, and where possible go to recommended places.

- Due to decompression, it is not advisable to fly within 12 hours of diving.