by Leigh Kemp, 28 November 2008

We drifted slowly toward the bull elephant on the riverbank. He didn't flinch, allowing us to get within 10m of him. We watched as he sprayed water over himself before squirting some down his throat.

Without even a glance in our direction he moved off towards the tree line. I pulled my paddle out the water and sat back, marvelling at how relaxed the elephants in the Zambezi Valley are.

Earlier that morning we had set off on the river a little after first light, just before the sun rose to burn the mist off the water. Smoke from numerous hearth fires hung in the air on the Zambian side of the river. On the Zimbabwean side the day was revealing the activities of the night.

Hippo tracks indicated the nocturnal feeding habits of these giant herbivores and pug marks showed where a pride of lion had come down to the water's edge to drink. 'The Zambian side still has many issues with poaching,' our guide informed us.

'It'll take a long time for it to come right again.' At the time I was happy to be on the Zimbabwean side of the river. It was the late 1990s and I was on a 3-day canoe safari down the Zambezi towards Mana Pools - 3 days of the most thrilling safari adventure I'd ever been on.

Roll on 10 years and the canoe has shifted to the other side of the river. The Zambian side has now become the place to be. Zimbabwe's political and economic woes, coupled with Zambia's newfound enthusiasm, have ensured that tourists' eyes are turning to the northern bank of the Zambezi.

Scars of the Past

The Lower Zambezi National Park still carries scars of the years of neglect and poaching but it's slowly coming into its own as a wildlife destination. What's more, with Mana Pools - one of Africa's most beautiful and wildlife-rich parks - on the opposite bank, it's bound to become a sought-after safari destination.

The Zambezi Valley below Lake Kariba is cradled by mountains on either side, forming a unique wildlife haven where multitudes of animals concentrate on the river during the dry season, lured by the promise of water from the great river. When the rains come towards the end of October the game disperses throughout the valley, where food is plentiful and water is everywhere.

Tourist activities normally come to an end during this time due to the flooded land.

An Africa of Yesteryear

Lodges are springing up on the Zambian side of the river to cater for the ever-growing interest in the Lower Zambezi National Park, and although the game is not yet at its peak, there's enough to excite even the most jaded safari traveller.

The park, or the valley in particular, is home to the largest concentrations of hippo and crocodile on the African continent and during the day both species can be found in their thousands lolling on the sandbanks of the Zambezi River. Add elephant, buffalo and lion to the mix and an Africa of yesteryear comes to mind.

Activities to Get the Blood Flowing

Besides game drives the Zambezi Valley is renowned for its walking safaris. Blend this with Africa's best walking guides, and you have an experience that exceeds the wildest imaginations.

Zambia is legendary for its walking safaris and, having been pioneered in the great tributary of the Zambezi, the Luangwa Valley and in the Zambezi Valley, the legend lives on.

But it's the canoe safaris that attract many visitors to this wild corner of Africa. The canoeing can last from a one-day lodge outing to 9 days spent camping out on the islands and riverbanks of the Zambezi. Lodges offer canoeing as an activity during a guest's stay but the real deal is a full canoe safari lasting from 3 to 9 days.

There are many companies that offer canoe safaris and the level of comfort varies from company to company. Some safaris offer fully serviced overnight stops while others pitch camp on a sandbank, but whatever the comfort level the experience is sure to be a lifetime memory.

Thinking back on the morning more than 10 years ago where the guide had said it would take a long time for the Zambian side to come right, I realise now that the long time has come: the Lower Zambezi National Park has arrived to stake its claim to the region's safari crown.

Article © Copyright 2008 Go2Africa.

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