A Luxury Lodge vs. Rest Camp Experience

The plan was simple: Fly into Kruger Mpumalanga International (KMIA), self-drive through the Kruger Park, overnighting at a rest camp, and then spend a weekend at Singita Lebombo - one of the world's most incredible & unique hotels.

Our aim - to settle the great Kruger argument: just how much better is a luxury Kruger lodge stay than a Kruger self-drive and rest camp holiday?

Thursday - Flying In vs Self Drive

Even seasoned locals can fall prey to badly posted signs and confusing back roads. Driving the rental out of KMIA, I unknowingly embarked on a two-hour detour that saw us lapping the airport twice. Lost, behind schedule & impatient to enjoy the Kruger, I impulsively regretted the decision to self-drive; perhaps we should have flown into the lodge?

As the scenery shifted so did our mood. Tar roads shrivelled into bumpy dirt roads; we passed hundreds of neatly dressed African kids walking home from school; women walked under colourful umbrellas to protect from the heat; and men with smart hats and dirty overalls hung around make-shift shanty stores while strange, spotty Nguni cows stared us down as we passed.

There was a distinct energy in the air as we witnessed a slice of daily rural life in this small secret part of Africa. Our Kruger holiday had already begun, we just hadn't realised it.

Into the Wild

Passing through the Kruger Gate we settled into a slow pace, breathing in the thick green morning. Reaching Skukuza, the Kruger's busiest rest camp, we stopped for a well-earned brunch.

Cappuccinos and scrambled egg pitas were devoured under the shade of a large lapa, whose underbelly housed a hanger of sleeping bats. 'The bats were here first', is the general reply from staff to any bemused diners.

The Skukuza shop feeds every holiday need. I was up-sold on the 'better Kruger map' and, in keeping with the spirit of things, bought some bottled Mampoer (a potent home brewed liquor). Loaded with gifts, spirits high and happy, we headed off into the big green yonder thirsty for something wilder.

Tracing a long southern arch to Pretoriuskop; we quickly stuffed the camera with pics, not to mention 3 of the Big 5 ticked off on a single casual drive, that's value in anyone's jungle-book.

Happily exhausted we pulled into Pretoriuskop; what better place to begin settling a Kruger luxury vs. rest camp score than the very first Kruger rest camp (opened 1927).

Smaller than the major players, Pretoriuskop is a favourite with seasoned Kruger visitors. It's small, intimate and set in a scenic area of open grasslands, hills and forests; dense animal concentrations and a large road network means excellent game viewing in this section of the park.

Friday - A Morning Self-Drive

Our early start was quickly rewarded by a passing herd of zebra. A confrontation between two head-butting males quickly descended into a dust storm of wild, hoof-kicking madness. The decisive blow was swift; the defeated male backed off fast - punch drunk from a double kick to the throat.

Throughout the day we witnessed incredible and unique sightings. Much to our civilized disgust, a male Giraffe drank a female's urine (acceptable courting behaviour apparently) and we were sent into a laughing frenzy as we watched a male impala unsuccessfully trying to impregnate his own belly button with what game rangers like to call his 'pink mischief'.

Jurassic Picnic

We picnicked in the early afternoon to the soundtrack of monkeys wrestling in bushes. Banana-beaked hornbills and glossy starlings paid us intermittent visits as we crunched and munched, which by this stage was an exercise accompanied by icy bottles of beer.

Somewhere on the southern edge of the Kruger, surrounded by wilderness, with an icy beer in hand and a tank full of gas, a distinct feeling hit: this was an African holiday - floating free under the big blue with not much to do and whole wild days ahead of you. We arrived at the Lebombo gate after a 7-hour day of magical game viewing; how could we possibly top that?

Living it up at Lebombo

Singita Lebombo - sweet refuge to the soft-boned traveller. I stepped out the car a new man - equal parts Bond and Pacino - expecting my martinis stirred, my cigar's Cuban and bathrobes worn absolutely everywhere!

Even on game drives, you ask?

"Hoo Ha!” I say.

The impression of the lodge was immediate: a mesh of clean architectural lines and glass slid across a hilltop - striking a fine balance between the modern and natural. Lebombo played the part of the perfect co-star, elegantly drawing your attention to the leading lady - the majestic Kruger wilderness.

Sweet Bitter Suite

We delayed entering our room until after lunch, prolonging the sense of anticipation. Perhaps it was the lunchtime Radera 2005 chenin blanc, the peppered prawns, hazelnut ice cream or even the second helping of cheese cake, but, confronted by a room of such decadence, there was a sudden melancholy realization: 'Our holidays would never be the same again'.

In front of us a glass faĉade presented the epic Lebombo valley while inside the room lay every possible comfort & convenience. Ipods^tm, board games, complimentary mini-bars, outdoor showers, heaping bowls of bath salts, incredibly soft blankets, outdoor day beds... how would we ever leave?

A late afternoon bath overlooking the river with the windows wide open quickly became the highlight of the trip. We savoured every unfamiliar noise: hippos argued in throaty belches, male impala locked and slammed horns - their dull thuds echoing across the valley, and birds sang invisible songs until sunset. I tried whistling along, as I stared over the thick African bush and refilled my champagne glass.

Saturday - Safari Thin & Comfort A Plenty

We're tucked away in the Kruger's north east, just a few kilometers from Mozambique. Our morning drive results in a leopard sighting but the local lion pride is nowhere to be seen. Incredibly, the game viewing is scarce today.

Consolation came with lazing around the pool, having a shiatsu massage, and enjoying lunch at a table perched in the pool's shallow end. My bare feet swirled in the water, dispersing months of stress in slow cool ripples.

Saturday drew to an elegant close with a romantic bush dinner illuminated by hundreds of dancing fireflies and accompanied by spine-tingling Shangaan singing.

Sunday - Getting Into The Bush

At 5 :00 am; last night's drunken mist lifts; groaning I recalled the hearty promise that I'd be up for a morning bush walk. After enough coffee to kill a small dog, we set off.

The soft crunch of boots and the mournful calls of emerald-spotted wood-doves gave voice to the morning. We tracked some wary hippo, explored some rocky cliffs, and enjoyed incredible views of the Lebombo valley. Forget the big game chase, there's nothing more naturally intimate than a bush walk.

Packing our bags back at camp we said goodbye and traced our way back to the real world as Lebombo disappeared into the shimmering haze.

The Verdict

Everyone should, at least once in their lives, enjoy a luxury Kruger bush experience. No other luxury can compare, not the classiest hotel or the smartest resort. And yet, I'd go back to the Kruger one hundred times over and stay in self-catering Kruger accommodation.

On a good day, self drive game-viewing in the park, although more unpredictable, can be just as good as that on offer in a private reserve. You may not get the bush experts, off-road fun, and fine service but you do get time, your own pace, and the power to swing your wheel on a whim and create your own adventure.

In a perfect world, everyone would be able to afford both experiences. If you have the budget, look no further than a luxury Kruger stay; for the average traveller, rest assured in the fact that money doesn't always bring you the best of everything, with a little luck some magical moments, like the Kruger, can still come pretty cheap.

A Healthy Compromise

The best advice I can give is the following: if you have the means, stay in a Kruger luxury lodge, but instead of rushing to arrive and leave, take a day or two to self drive through the Kruger Park - whose real magic is that no one really ever knows, not game rangers, trackers or guides, just what lies in wait around the next corner.

Article © Copyright 2008 Go2Africa.

Print this page |  Send to a friend

Related content