Slowly, Slowly to the Top - Climbing Kili

by Sandra Mallinson, 13 November 2007

Mt Kilimanjaro has a magical allure. Every year thousands of fit and not-so-fit trekkers are drawn to this to this almost perfectly shaped volcano, rising from the Serengeti plains. At 5 985m it's the tallest free-standing mountain in the world.

Getting to the top may not require any mountaineering experience, but Kilimanjaro is a massive chunk of rock which deserves a whole heap of respect. Trails rapidly wind their way up through five distinct climatic zones, each with considerably less oxygen than the one before.

Last month three Go2Africa consultants (SVCs) took up the challenge of Uhuru Peak. Landy and Lucinda, both East Africa specialists, were given the opportunity to hike the six-day Rongai Route. Janine joined the party as, in her own words, "I've always wanted to hike up the highest peak in Africa.""

The Rongai is a camping trail which approaches the peak from the northeast. A team of porters carries the tents, tables, chairs, food, food and more food - leaving you with a light load. Being a circular route gives Rongai the huge advantage of avoiding 'two-way traffic' in those last excruciating hours before the top.

Climbing Kilimanjaro requires fair physical fitness and incredibly strong will power. Perhaps the following Zig Ziglar quote says it best; "It's not your aptitude, but your attitude, that determines your altitude."

Landy Kent, 32

Specialist Vacation Consultant

"Up until this trip, the longest hike I'd ever done was three days and two nights through the jungles of Chang Mai, Thailand. I don't consider myself a sporty person, I'm definitely not a climber, but I like a challenge and have always been attracted to Kilimanjaro.

"For me summit day was a mental, physical and emotional experience. We began walking at around 11.30pm. It was pitch black and icy cold. I was really feeling the effects of altitude and had a painful spasm in my shoulder.

"All I wanted was for the sun to rise. Then, when it eventually did, I saw how far we still had to go, and nearly burst into tears. From Gillman's Point to Uhuru Peak is a total climb of only 200m, but it may as well be forever.

"Uhuru means 'freedom' and that's what I felt on the summit, an immense freedom. I was completely in the moment; cut off from the pain and exhaustion of the past few hours, not thinking about having to trek down the other side, just standing on the 'roof of Africa' looking around in amazement.

"The whole experience gave me an incredible sense of achievement, and the knowledge that I have an inner strength which I sometimes tend to forget. I definitely recommend taking up the challenge and would consider doing it again via a different route."

Lucinda Read, 32

Specialist Vacation Consultant

"Climbing Kilimanjaro has always been on my life's 'to do' list, but I never thought I'd get the chance to tick it off.

"I enjoy pushing my limits, and have competed in off-road triathlons and the 'Two Oceans' ultra-marathon. But getting to the top of Kilimanjaro has very little to do with fitness. Until this trip I'd never been above 3 000m - and that was where the real challenge came in.

"I felt the effects of altitude a lot earlier than the others. Day 4 was horrendous; all I could focus on was putting one foot in front of the other. The next day was a lot better though, my body had started acclimatizing, and the guide decided it was safe for me to summit.

"Enduring such physical and psychological hardships as a group was a big part of the Kili experience. We all struggled through moments where we thought we wouldn't make it, but we did, and it definitely brought us closer as friends.

"Another unique aspect of the trail is that you really manage to get away from it all; no cellphones, no books, no email - no distractions of any kind. Six days spent walking through the Tanzanian wilderness gave me the chance to step back and think about things at leisure.

"That's something I'd like to take away from the trip. We all lead such hectic and complex lives it's important to take time out to truly relax. Not that climbing Kili could really be called relaxing."

Janine Whewell, 33

Specialist Vacation Consultant

"I've always loved hiking and trekking trips. On my various travels I've hiked the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal and around Sikkim in India.

"For me this trek was about far more than just reaching the summit. The equatorial rainforest is really beautiful. On day 1 you're surrounded by green trees with Colobus monkeys playing in the branches then, a few days later, you're trudging past huge glaciers. The radical changes in climate and vegetation are quite surreal.

"One of my highlights was waking up every morning at 7am when the sky was still beautifully clear, and having breakfast looking up at the snow capped peak. Not many people take the Rongai Route, which means you can appreciate the stillness all the more.

"I also battled with the altitude. Unlike most people we decided not to take Diamox (which reduces the effects of altitude sickness). As was reached the summit I was feeling so tierd, so completely exhausted ... all I wanted to do was lie down.

"The effects of the altitude made this trek far more challenging than any I had done before. But this helped me realise how much my body can handle, and reinforced the fact that I can do anything if I put your mind to it."

Tips for reaching the top

The greatest obstacle when climbing Kili is not the distance you hike, but the speed with which you ascend. Uhuru Peak is 500m higher that Everest Base Camp, and the oxygen concentration is less than half that of sea level, so it's no surprise that most climbers suffer badly from altitude sickness.

The best way to combat altitude sickness is to add a day to your trail for acclimatisation. If you don't have the luxury of time it's crucial that you walk slowly, drink loads of water, get plenty of sleep and eat well.

Yes Kilimanjaro has become one of the most climbed mountains in the world, but don't make the mistake of underestimating it. Plan your trip well and you'll find yourself celebrating a great sense of achievement as you stand above Tanzania's wilderness.

Readers' Comments

I haven't climbed Kili - although I've often thought about it precisely because it's fairly accessible, as mountains go. I have heard from some people who've been there, done that, that it's often underestimated because it's not a technical climb and that altitude sickness is a real bummer. I guess I'll keep thinking about it for now... Cautious Climber, Cape Town

Thanks for the tips!

I''m 56 years old and wonder if I am beyond ever climbing Kili myself.

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