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by Jonathan Andrews
Table Mountain is one of the most easily discernible natural features in the world. It's been a beacon to many, including myself. As a Capetonian with a very poor sense of direction, I rely on the mountain to navigate my way around the city.
Table Mountain is Cape Town's most iconic landmark and the city's most popular tourist attraction. Its sandstone plateau dominates the metropolitan skyline at a width of nearly three kilometres and an elevation of 1,086 metres at its highest point, Maclear's Beacon.
Since the time of early explorers, its distinctive shape has been a beacon and its physical features the source of myth and legend.
The mountain forms part of the Table Mountain National Park that runs from Signal Hill in the north to Cape Point in the south, a distance of some 60km. The range is home to a unique floral kingdom that boasts more species than in all of the British Isles. The Cape Floral Kingdom, with its fynbos (fine bush) forms one of the six floral kingdoms in the world. The best time to see the fynbos in flower is generally during spring, although other indigenous lilies and geraniums are in bloom throughout the summer.
In addition to the flora, there is plenty of animal life on the mountain. Near the upper cable station especially you will be sure to see Cape Hyrax or "Dassies", which are little brown creatures that look a lot like rabbits, but without long ears and enlarged hind legs. It is hard to believe that their closest relative is the elephant.
A rarer sighting, due to changes in habitat, is the Table Mountain Ghost Frog. The adults grow to about 6cm in length and have a spotty green and brown complexion.
The mountain was formed more than 600 million years ago when the southern Cape was under the sea. Volcanic activity pushed lava through the seabed raising it above sea level. This lava formed granite and subsided to a shallow depth for another 200 million years or so.
Rivers left sedimentary deposits that solidified to form the Table Mountain Sandstone that exists today. This stone is harder and more resistant to erosion than the other deposits in the area. Hence the dramatic shape of the mountain and the comparatively smaller Lion's Head and Devil's Peak, which stand to either side of it.
With more than 350 trails, there are many ways to skin this proverbial cat, and whoever said the direct approach is the easiest approach was obviously not referring to Platteklip Gorge.
Platteklip, which means flat rock, is anything but. It is one of the more vertical and exposed ways to reach the top. The trail starts about one and a half kilometers from the lower cable station along Tafelberg Road above the city. It is a well maintained and popular route, which could easily be compared to a giant stair-master.
The path is easily discernible and well signposted. Anti-erosion baskets (nets filled with rocks) keep the paths relatively level. It is a strenuous slog straight to the top through the little nick in the top profile of the 'table'. The hike should take just over an hour for a fit party, or up to three hours for the uninitiated.
Proper footwear is essential, as is plenty of water - there are few water sources along the route. For safety, it is always advisable to hike in groups of two or more.
Looking back during rest stops, the trail offers some of the most spectacular unobstructed views over the city and Table Bay.
The hike is best attempted in the early morning due to its exposure to the sun. Once you reach the top of the mountain it is an easy 10- to 15-minute walk to the upper cable station. From there, a single journey down on the cable car costs R74 for an adult, often a more appealing option than the knee-jarring decent.
Other, less strenuous, although longer routes include the Bridle Path that follows the jeep track from Constantia Nek. Skeleton Gorge and Nursery Ravine both begin in Kirstenbosch Gardens, and the Kasteelpoort track starts above Camps Bay and winds between two of the Twelve Apostles.
The easiest and most popular way up is the aerial cable car.
Originally, a funicular railway was proposed in 1913, but the project was delayed by the onset of the First World War. The cable car was first opened in 1929. Since then, it has carried well over 16 million passengers to the top.
In 1997, new Swiss Rotair cars were fitted which increased carrying capacity and are more resistant to the elements. A revolving floor allows passengers a 360-degree panorama around Camps Bay, over the city, across Table Bay and, indeed, awe-inspiring close-ups of the sheer craggy cliffs of the "table".
The views from the top are truly breathtaking. There are plenty of easily accessible viewing platforms connected by about two kilometers of well maintained footpaths. For the more adventurous, there are several well marked circular walks along the relatively level "tabletop". Proper walking shoes are advisable and it is recommended that visitors prepare for all weather as wind and cloud can move over at any time.
The facilities on the top are excellent, with food, refreshments and curios for sale. Wonderful value at the self-service restaurant is the "Table Mountain Breakfast", a full cooked breakfast, which is available for R19.95. There are also plenty of nooks that make ideal spots for picnics and sundowners.
A return ticket on the cable car costs R145 for an adult. Student, pensioner and children's rates apply with appropriate identification. Call the Table Mountain Aerial Cable Way for up to date information and opening times on +27 21 424 8181.
Article © Copyright 2006 Go2Africa.
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