Tanzania's Magnificent Mahale Mountains

by Leigh Kemp, 17 April 2008

"There it is ..." Doug whispered to me over the cacophony of the jungle, "... a pygmy kingfisher!" I stared at the bird for a moment then slowly lifted my camera.

Delicate rays of sunlight filtered through the wet foliage framing the kingfisher in soft, fragmented light. I barely remember taking its picture, so entranced was I by the surreal light and sounds of the forest.

I was in the Mahale Mountains National Park in search of chimpanzees, for which the park is renowned, but I quickly realised that Mahale is not merely about an encounter with a single species; Mahale is a wondrous and inspiring experience, an encounter with nature at its most extravagant.

Wildlife Treasure Trove

Mahale Mountains National Park, situated on the shores of the world's second deepest lake, Lake Tanganyika, is a treasure trove of wildlife. From chimps and lions to psychedelically-coloured butterflies and rare birds, the mountains are a naturalist's dream come true.

During my three days there, I was fortunate to observe the chimpanzees on two occasions as well as other primate species such as the yellow baboons and red-tailed colobus. I heard the piercing screams of Sykes monkeys above the forest din and bonded with the mischievous vervet monkeys I found playing in my room.

Although the chimps of Mahale are among some of the most studied primates in Africa, the rest of the region's natural environment has remained relatively hidden from the outside world.

I wanted to concentrate on the lesser-known side of the park - and was astounded by the results. Birds, baboons, warthogs and butterflies in profusion add to what I now rate as being at the top of all African safari experiences.

Warthogs and bushbuck wandered along the fringes of the forest and were often spotted on the white, sandy beaches that dot the shoreline.

During our walks in the forest to find the chimps, we saw signs of many other animals including porcupines and even hyena. However, my search for leopard tracks proved fruitless - although our guides mentioned that they did occur in the area.

While not commonly seen in the national park, lions and elephants do occur. In fact, it was here that chimpanzee predation by lions was first recorded.

The birdlife in Mahale, although plentiful, is more often heard than seen. A moment of stillness in the forest will reveal the calls of numerous bird species above the general hum.

One of the commonly-seen species of bird is the palm-nut vulture, a semi-vegetarian that feeds on dead fish and palm oil - and is heartbreakingly rare in my native South Africa.

Sacred Mountains

Sacred to the Tongwe people who live along the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika in Tanzania, the Mahale Mountains were once their refuge from the slavers who scoured the region in search of victims. Signs of these safe-havens can still be found in the higher reaches of the mountains.

Although the Tongwe people no longer live in what is now the national park, their villages can be seen all along the lake shore outside the park boundaries - in the shadow of their sacred mountain. Subsisting on the lake, they still live very much to their traditional ways.

Still less well-known than Gombe Stream National Park to the north, which has been immortalised through the 45-year study of chimpanzees by the legendary Jane Goodall; Mahale is rapidly staking its claim as the best chimpanzee encounter experience - and in my opinion, one of the best safari experiences - in Africa.

Inaccessible

Mahale National Park is inaccessible by road, adding to its growing reputation of remoteness. The park can be accessed either by air - a vegetation-lashed airstrip that seems to disappear in to the mountain, adding to the sense of adventure - or by boat.

From the airstrip it's a spectacular boat ride to the park headquarters or to one of the three accommodation sites. From the boat the lush forest seems impenetrable, with absolutely no sign of human habitation - save for the few tourist lodges dotted along the lake shore.

As the boat docks on the beach the feeling of isolation becomes all-consuming and the attraction of Mahale finally sinks in - mountains, dense forest, secluded beaches and warm, crystal-clear water beckon enticingly.

Africa's Best

It's easy to think that a trip to Mahale Mountains National Park is only about a close encounter with the chimps, as many tourist brochures and websites promote this concept. Indeed there are other, more accessible, places where one can observe chimps. However, in my mind, the Mahale experience is about the place, the rejuvenation of the senses and the overwhelming feeling of peace.

Every African destination is extraordinary in its own right, but I left Mahale with a clearer understanding of what it is that makes this continent so distinctive and draws so many travellers to its wilderness regions.

For an overall memorable safari experience, I can confidently predict that a Mahale safari will surpass any previous journey in Africa.

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