by Emma Gass, 31 July 2009

There is often a big mystery and a little suspicion that surrounds African spirituality, not only around the world, but here in South Africa too. So when I was invited to a new friend's graduation ceremony to become a Sangoma, a traditional Pondoland shaman, I had little idea of what to expect, and my friends and family greeted the news with mumblings about "witchdoctors”; being accepted by the community; and generally some very big eyes.

What is a Sangoma?

A Sangoma is more than a traditional healer. Although they have insightful knowledge into the healing properties of plants and herbs, they are also the intermediary between this world and the spirit world, communicating with the ancestors through dreams and trance dancing. Sangomas are highly respected members of the community; they are the community doctor, psychologist, arbitrator and priest all rolled into one. Sangomas still play an important role in South African society; even in the cities many people still seek their advice before visiting a western doctor.

I have always loved the Wild Coast and have always felt a sense of peace there that comes with fresh air and living simply, close to the land and sea. But this time I delved much deeper and caught a glimpse of an ancient, magical place.

A magic world

To get there we drove through a forest of fluttering white butterflies to the edge of an enormous waterfall that drops vertically into a green valley dotted with traditional round huts. With no roads into the valley we left our cars behind and followed visiting Sangomas down through the indigenous forest, to the homestead far below on the banks of a crystal clear stream.

The homestead is made up of four rondavel huts: the kitchen, the sleeping hut, the sangoma's hut and the ceremonial hut which was the focus of the graduation ceremony taking place over the next 4 days. There are no modern luxuries here. Life continues as it always has, with candle light to illuminate the starry nights, water carried from the nearby stream for drinking and washing, and cooking done over an open fire.

A warm and sincere welcome

We were welcomed literally with open arms, singing and dancing as we entered the yard, as were all the people that streamed into this small family home over the next few days. Young and old walked from nearby villages to witness the graduation of the new Sangoma, and many other Sangomas came to partake in this special occasion, join the party and trade plants and herbs endemic to their own corners of Pondoland and South Africa.

We were all kept well fed throughout the weekend by the women and thwasa's (those training to become Sangomas, who are expected to serve those around them.) Mugs of steaming tea and traditional Xhosa bread were produced each morning, chickens were caught and slaughtered, the ceremonial bull was shared among everyone and enormous black pots of traditional umngqusho (samp and beans) were stirred vigorously on the open fire.

Alcohol also plays an important role in the 4-day long celebration. Jugs of frothy Umqombothi (traditional beer) were blessed and passed around - malty and tasty like Guinness on day one; it continues to ferment as the days progress into a thick, sour, lethal concoction by the last day - as was local Commando Brandy and bottles of warm beer.

Celebrating to an African beat

This is a party and a spiritual celebration that goes on for days; many of the participants don't sleep at all during this time and start to look a little wild-eyed towards the end, but there is always an atmosphere of fun and camaraderie. There were particular ceremonies that occurred at intervals throughout the celebrations that mostly took place in the ceremonial hut. An unbelievable number of people squeeze into this small space - but miraculously there was always room for another bum on the low benches or grass mats. This is where the Sangomas dance to the rhythmic beats of the enormous drums, everyone claps in unison and songs that everyone but us seems to know the words to were sung, creating a timeless African tempo that strums on your heart strings and makes time feel completely elastic.

Some of the ceremonies were held outside in the soft sunlight, including the notable gift giving ceremony, where all the Sangomas, dressed in their finery, gave gifts to the new graduate, as did all the other guests, including family and friends like us who had travelled from Cape Town. Each gave according to their ability from thick blankets to a tea cup or a ten rand note. Each gift was held aloft for everyone to see and applaud - a wonderful, joyous event.

We eventually left the festivities, which were to go on for yet another night, in search of clean clothes and cold beer. But as I looked down into the valley to where we had come from, I felt incredibly lucky to have been welcomed into this magical world that is so ancient and timeless and real. Makhosi!

Readers' Comments:

Have you had any experiences with African spirituality? Tell us about it..

Article © Copyright 2009 Go2Africa.

Print this page |  Send to a friend

Related content