by Leigh Kemp, 1 May 2007

The two lionesses on the road were peering off into the bush. We waited in anticipation. A big male giraffe appeared from the trees. The lions tensed. After what seemed like an eternity the giraffe headed off in the opposite direction. The lions left the road and disappeared into the grass. We followed their movement by swaying of grass and the occasional sighting of an ear.

A taste of Tinga

Growth in the safari tourism industry has resulted in many new lodges sprouting all over southern Africa, with each lodge trying to find something new and unique to offer tourists in an increasingly saturated safari market.

The whole concept of an African wilderness experience is becoming less of a criterion than the lure of luxurious accommodation and health spas. It is very subtly tuning our senses toward an overly materialistic appreciation of the wilderness.

Are there places that strike the right balance amidst all this development? After my wife and I spent time visiting Tinga in the Kruger Park I can answer a definite 'Yes'!

In the beginning

I remember a day almost twenty years ago when I was sitting in the scattered shade of an acacia tree in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, watching the heat-inspired mirage in the distance and contemplating the idea of a super luxurious lodge with all the trappings of modernity.

The idea sprang from the heat-induced discomfort I was feeling at the time and included thoughts of rooms with air-conditioning, private swimming pools, private drinks bars and superior food. The idea seemed far-fetched despite the fact that, even back then, there were some private lodges in South Africa that were mixing luxury accommodation with the wilderness experience.

Legends and Narina

Some years ago, the South African National Parks Board set aside areas within the Kruger Park as private concessions; these areas were then leased to private concession holders who set up lodge operations.

The Tinga concession lies between the Sabie and Sand Rivers in the Skukuza region, an area considered one of the best in the Kruger Park for wildlife.The concession comprises an exclusive 5000 hectare area, used for game drives and bush walks.

Tinga consists of two lodges, Legends and Narina, both situated on the banks of the Sabie River within the Kruger National Park.Tinga also has access to all the Kruger Park roads, with the added attraction of night drives in the park.

Legends and Narina lodges are almost identical with the only major difference being that they are built on opposite sides of the river. Each lodge comprises nine luxury suites that are linked by raised walkways. The suites are well spaced, ensuring exclusivity, and each one is equipped with a plunge pool and private viewing deck with an unobstructed view of the Sabie river.

The Sabie River is the lifeblood of the southern Kruger, and we were treated to sightings of buffalo, giraffe and many species of antelope and birds from the deck of our suite.

Tree of life

The first thing that struck me upon arrival at Legends Lodge was the space. The main area opened out onto the Sabie River, with the only obstruction to the view being a huge African Ebony tree. The tree, which is more than 200 years old, is the centerpiece of the outside dining area and turns what could have been merely an outside deck with a view into a space of reflection.

We were warmly welcomed and given a tour of the main area before heading off to our suite. Once there, we were informed that we could have the spa therapist treat us on our deck, and even the the plunge pool could be set to whatever temperature we desired.

My mind drifted back to the acacia tree in the Central Kalahari all those years ago. One feature I did not think of back then was a television set in the room. Tinga provides a TV service with over 50 channels ranging from CNN to Cartoon Network. This is a bone of contention for many people who wonder at the ethics of watching television in the bush. I contemplated this comfortable irony as I lounged on the couch enjoying the start of the Cricket World Cup.

Of leopards and lions

Up ahead a male bushbuck suddenly appeared. He paused for a moment in the road, then jumped back and jogged into the bush in the direction from which he came. Bretton slowed the vehicle, whilst peering intently into the bush on the opposite side of the road from which the bushbuck had disappeared.

"Leopard” he quietly exclaimed. A female leopard was moving slowly through the scrub. We watched her until she vanished. Bretton explained that that he had noticed the bushbuck's reaction and realized it was running from a predator.

The wonder of Tinga time

In our time at Tinga we had excellent sightings of most of the animals occurring in the area. Lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and giraffe are regularly seen as are a variety of antelope including impala and kudu, but the highlight of the drives was the knowledge of the guides who carry their passion for the wilderness across without the attitude that is so common in many private lodges.

Night skies and camp fires

On our last night at Tinga Legends we had dinner in the Boma. It was a beautiful evening, clear skies and wind-still. After gorging on a variety of traditional dishes I sat back and watched the flames from the fire as I sipped on a glass of wine. I caught the scent of woodsmoke and the contentment was complete.

Later as I was lying in bed I thought of the past days at Tinga and wondered what sets it apart. Tinga provides more creature comforts than any other lodge I have visited and yet it is not overwhelming. The suites are hidden from each other allowing you to believe that you have your own private piece of African wilderness while sitting on your deck watching the day pass.

The procession of wildlife past the suites adds to the idea. As I was drifting off I thought I heard a lion roar in the distance, I listened but did not hear it again. The woodsmoke scent lingered in my nostrils and my last thought before falling asleep was that Tinga has struck the perfect balance between providing luxury in combination with a wilderness experience

Article © Copyright 2007 Go2Africa.

Print this page |  Send to a friend

Related content