Where to Safari: Kenya or Tanzania

 
, 22 November 2007

East Africa is where the concept of a safari was born. And East Africa is still many travellers' epitome of a safari. Those old iconic picture postcards of Africa come mostly from East Africa. There are many who swear by the attractions of East over Southern Africa - but this has been dealt with in other articles .. read article. The question here is, where in East Africa is best?

A safari in this region of the continent generally means Kenya and/or Tanzania and, although Uganda has been vying for a position in the safari stakes recently, I'll restrict myself to comparing the former countries. Comparisons are odious, but due to the (friendly) rivalry between Kenya and Tanzania I've decided to add my voice to the debate.

Best for Big Game

Most visitors come on safari to see big game. Lions and elephants are high on the list of priorities for safari-goers. Kenya has lions and so does Tanzania. Kenya has elephants and so does Tanzania. I don't know which country boasts the most of each species but suffice to say that both have enough lions and elephants to go around.

While Tanzania has Masai giraffe, Kenya has Masai, reticulated and Rothschild giraffe. They're all the same height and all look like the classic African giraffe is supposed to look - with a little variation in colouration. Perhaps to make up for the lack of giraffe variety, Tanzania has chimpanzees.

Both countries boast of the 'Greatest Show on Earth' with the annual wildebeest migration - but which offers the best place to view this from? It would appear that even the wildebeest are in two minds on this question, as many animals pull out of the migration to remain in a favoured area. Some animals have been known to stay in a particular spot for more than a year.

The wildebeest's young are born in Tanzania, but the best river crossings are seen in Kenya. So for death head to Kenya and to see life head to Tanzania - but be warned: with new life comes drama - predators are ready to prey on the newborns.

Kenya has more flamingoes than Tanzania. Now if we were talking rhinos here, this might count for something. But we're talking millions of flamingos - yes, millions. So choosing one country over another because one has three million odd and the other 'only' a million, may have more to do with materialism than real ornithological value.

Highest, Wildest, Most Inaccessible

Tanzania has the highest point in Africa in Mount Kilimanjaro. But the best view of Kilimanjaro, if you're not wanting to climb it, is from Kenya.

Kenya has the second highest point in Africa. There are no views of Mount Kenya from Tanzania ... but it is considered to offer better climbing than Mount Kilimanjaro.

The northern parks of Kenya such as Samburu National Reserve and Marsabit National Park are off the beaten track and provide a remote and wild experience. The southern parks of Tanzania, Selous Game Reserve - the biggest game park in Africa - and Ruaha National Park, are also far off the beaten track, wild and remote. So Kenya is wild in the north and Tanzania is wild in the south.

Roads in both Kenya and Tanzania range from bad to shocking and there's a move in both countries to upgrade the infrastructure. Those who feel that a safari just isn't the same without the aching kidneys need not panic though - there are potholes and bad roads aplenty in both countries.

Beaches and Elephants

A new focus in safari tourism is on the bush and beach concept; simply put, guests get to revel in the dust of the game parks for a week or two before finishing their safari with a relaxing beach holiday.

Both Kenya and Tanzania offer this idyllic African vacation, with Tanzania going one step further and combining the experience in one park. Saadani National Park is a big game area that extends onto the beach and apparently elephant have been observed 'crashing' in the surf - wearing their trunks, fortunately.

Not to be outdone however, some vagrant elephants from the interior were spotted wandering the beaches of southern Kenya last year.

So, Kenya or Tanzania?

So which country is the best to visit? Tanzania has the Serengeti, Kenya has the Masai Mara. Tanzania has Mount Kilimanjaro, Kenya has the best view of it. Kenya has different coloured giraffe, Tanzania has different apes. Kenya has beautiful beaches (sometimes with elephants), Tanzania has beautiful beaches (sometimes with elephants).

Unless you have a particular interest in giraffe patterns, a monkey species checklist or are obsessed with seeing as many flamingoes as possible then I cannot help you make up your mind.

You could put the two names on a dartboard and see which one you hit first. But my advice would be to travel to East Africa ... and see for yourself.

Travel Fact File

Leigh Kemp's early dreams of Africa were built on the plains of east Africa through books and pictures. Growing up in southern Africa his early careers in conservation and safari guiding took him through South Africa, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. It was to be some years before he ventured into east Africa.

Confronting the issue of east vs south when it comes to safaris in previous articles he recently began to ponder on east vs east or Kenya vs Tanzania.

His recent trip took in the Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Tarangire in Tanzania and the Masai Mara, Amboseli and Samburu in Kenya where he experienced some of Africa's greatest wildlife areas. Kenya vs Tanzania arose from this journey.

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