by Kimberley O'Sullivan, 22 September 2009

The beauty of living in Cape Town is that it is very often the starting or end point to fabulous African adventures, and I was fortunate enough to experience more than just the Mother City last weekend.

Having suddenly found myself part of an educational trip that was heading up South Africa's famed Garden Route, I wasn't quite prepared to hear the words, 'elephant-back safari!' and even 'Billabong Factory Shop!' whispered and enthused from all corners.

Doing the Garden Route Meander

I pack my walking shoes, my mascara and my adventure cap and prepare to head up the South African coastline, known for its spectacular natural beauty, endless beaches and pretty coastal towns.

I soon discovered that blonde Swede Fillipa has been in the country for only 8 days, and was already finding the Cape a rather remarkable place, while Dutch-born Bernise entertained us with her Afrikaans language faux pas.

I settled back in my seat and watched the scenic southern coastline flash past my window, and before I knew it, we arrived at Jukani Predator Park just outside Mossel Bay, a town that heralds the start of the Garden Route.

Big Cats, Big Appetites & Big Love

Established in 2005 as a sanctuary for captive-bred big cats and other predators, Jukani is devoted to the care and conservation of these magnificent animals, and to the education of the general public about the dangers of captive breeding.

We embark on an hour-long guided tour with the owners Jurg and Karen Olsen, whose love and compassion for these animals just shines out of their eyes.

'This is Grompie', says Jurg, and right on cue, Grompie (meaning Growler) a huge male lion, lets out a rumbling growl that sounds like a small earthquake.

Then to my utter horror and delight, Jurg enters the enclosure and envelops his giant friend in a massive hug, Grompie emitting a number of love growls to his fellow 'brother'. We are rendered speechless.

Let's Feed the Predators

We wander past each enclosure and are introduced to playful Queenie the lioness, 4 skittish jackals, 2 tumbling caracals coming close to the fence for a tidbit and we even see shy Chico, a rescued serval cat who grabbed his food and retreated into the bush.

Feeding time arrives and chunks of meat are flung into the enclosures of the Siberian tigers, white Bengals, proud black panther Spirit and his female leopard Angel, and feisty honey badger Buksie.

The highlight was to touch two young white lions through the fence; it is utterly remarkable to be face to face with creatures of such beauty - their gentle ice-blue eyes looking right at you.

'Tsau! and Thendile are moving in with Queenie when they're old enough', says Karen, 'she's getting lonely, and it'll be great to have a new pride at Jukani'.

After meeting the cheetahs and encountering a fierce little Jack Russel with three legs, we depart for the Point Hotel in Mossel Bay, our hearts warmed by the compassion of the handlers. I fell asleep to the sound of the waves and dreamt about big cats all night long.

Driving the 'First Road to Johannesburg'

The following day we headed for Port Elizabeth, made a sharp left turn and trundled off into the bushveld of Addo Elephant National Park. Our destination, the country-style Zuurberg Mountain Inn, is at the top of a winding gravel mountain pass.

After settling into our newly renovated rooms and marvelling over the outdoor shower, we descend on the dining room and proceed to eat our way through a 5-course meal. All that was left to do was to roll into bed and look forward to our elephant-back safari the following day.

Driving through the winding roads down to the base camp of Elephant Back Safaris was quite fascinating. Did you know that it was convicts who built 'The first road to Johannesburg'? We didn't, but since Zuurberg was built in 1861, we took them at their word.

Elephants Have Soft Ears & Nosy Trunks

The next 2 hours we spend meeting, riding, and feeding three gracious African elephants, Djuma, Thabu and Mukwa. Natalie and I mount 3.5m high Mukwa, holding tightly to the waist and belt of our guide.

'Feel his ear!', exclaims Nats. I do. It's soft and velvety, quite unlike the hairy 2cm thick skin that covers the rest of Mukwa's body. We plod uphill and the motion causes some discomfort: an elephant's spine is big and bony! I take a peak over my shoulder to see that Fillipa is doing well; she's never even ridden a horse before!

We dismount and follow the three friends through the bush and arrive at the feeding station. I look up nervously at his large grey forehead and get a sudden fright, Mukwa has snaked his trunk into my hand searching for pellets.

'Trunk up!' I say. He rolls his trunk over his head and opens his mouth wide. I step closer and notice that my head is directly between his tusks, but before that becomes too worrying I glance back for a quick photo, drop the pellets in his mouth and withdraw a rather sloppy, dirty hand.

Respecting the Wild Life

The rest of my trip flashes past in a blur. We enjoy a scenic game drive through Addo Elephant National Park complete with a sundowner on the hilltop.

We make a frantic 40minute stop at the Billabong Factory Shop in surfer's heaven Jeffery's Bay and leave with armfuls of marked down 'cool-wear'.

And we indulge our tastebuds for the final time at JJ's restaurant at the Knysna Waterfront, only to fall asleep in our beautiful Parkes Manor bedroom wondering who exactly got the haunted suite.

But nothing was quite like interacting with the big cats and elephants in the way we did. It is a unique privilege to be that close to wild animals, and understanding that when you're in their space, the respect is all theirs.

Readers' Comments:

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Article © Copyright 2009 Go2Africa.

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