Zanzibar and Lamu: Diving, Donkeys and Dhows | Africa Travel Newsletter

by Sandra Mallinson, 31 July 2009

It can get pretty nippy in Cape Town in July; all the more reason for a well-deserved mid-year break.

That seemed to be the general consensus at Go2Africa last month as three of my colleagues grabbed their passports, sunblock and sarongs, and flew north in search of a soothing dose of tropical sunshine.

East African Islands

Africa Travel Experts Emma Harrop and Vanessa Hobson touched down in Zanzibar, off the Tanzanian coast, while Product Developer Keri Muller rounded off her Kenya safari with a few blissful days on Lamu Island.

Zanzibar and Lamu, two exotic islands about 400km apart: both famous not only as incredible beach destinations, but also for the tangled alleyways and intricately carved doors of Stone Town and Lamu Old Town (both UNESCO World Heritage Sites).

I've always wanted to go to Zanzibar but recently the more I hear about the smaller, quieter island of Lamu, the faster it works its way up my lengthy list of must-see destinations.

So, if given the choice, which island would I opt for? First have a read of what Emma, Vanessa and Keri had to say.

Zanzibar -Soft Sand, Coral Reefs

Emma and Vanessa headed for the long, wide beaches that fringe the East Coast of Zanzibar Island; the largest, most visited island in the Zanzibar Archipelago.

"Zanzibar beaches are incredible, better than Mauritius" enthused Vanessa "the sand feels softer than baby powder. I also found that whereas Mauritius is more westernised and slick, the Zanzibari people have this natural exuberance which I loved - no wooden smiles or fake friendliness.

"It's a great beach destination for anyone wanting to unwind in the topical sunshine, with your hardest decision of the day being whether to drink a Pina Colada stretched out by the pool, or wander down the beach for a bit."

"Absolutely!" agreed Emma "Although there are also some top activities: I went scuba diving, and the ocean was this azure shade which made for excellent visibility. We saw a colourful collection of reef fish, a moray eel and this huge green turtle which immediately made me think of 'Finding Nemo'."

Zanzibar Accommodation

"Although the East Coast is very popular, it's less built up than I thought it would be" said Emma "You only really notice the other resorts looking back at the beach. Also there's a lot of greenery, palm trees and beautiful gardens which add to the privacy at the larger hotels.

"And then there's the food! On our last night at La Gemma Dell'Est we were treated to this incredible beach barbeque with crayfish, a whole marlin, roast pork ... so much tasty food! I also had a lot of sushi during my stay, which is such a treat when the fish is that fresh."

"I'm not a big seafood fan" added Vanessa, "but there were always plenty of other dishes to choose from, and let's not forget the delicious desserts".

Zanzibar - Any Advice For Travellers?

Emma: "Do bear in mind that the East Coast has extreme tidal differences, so if your main interests are sailing or swimming in the ocean, then I'd recommend the North Coast." Vanessa agrees: "Although I must say that I really enjoyed walking right out in the early morning, and sitting in shallow, bath-warm water.

"Zanzibar's clear warm ocean and clean beaches make it a fantastic holiday escape, on top of which are all these cultural layers: the Maasai people, the crazy cobbled streets of Stone Town - unfortunately we didn't spend much time in Stone Town but it's well worth a visit for it's history, architecture, shopping, markets, museums - it's a real eye-opener!”

Lamu - Quiet Beaches, Charming Towns

And then we have Lamu ...

"Lamu is a remote destination with beautiful, deserted beaches” began Keri "in fact the island has over 14km of beaches to explore, and you'll often find you have a long stretch of sand all to yourself.

"The thing I really loved about Lamu is that it is unspoilt by mass tourism. Lamu Old Town has retained its full character, and looks exactly how I'd imagine an old Arab trading port to be. It's more contained than Stone Town; it's lovely to wander around by yourself, and you're not harassed into buying anything.

"There are no cars on the Island, instead donkeys are the main form of transport, and the architecture has a Swahili influence with beautiful old Arab-style buildings, and hidden doorways opening onto cool inner gardens.

"You can catch a dhow between Lamu Old Town and Shela Village, and do some leisurely shopping for leatherwork, silver jewellery and fabric. While wandering the narrow winding streets, you soon become skilled at avoiding the odd piles of donkey dung.

Lamu Accommodation

"Unlike Zanzibar, there are no big resorts on Lamu. Your main choice of Lamu accommodation varies between luxury villas and far-flung beach lodges.

"It's no surprise that Lamu is well known for its villas. You'll be well looked after in these beautiful houses, with a private chef and housekeeper who'll go down to the local markets to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, fish, calamari, crabs, prawns - basically whatever you desire.

"The legendary Peponi Hotel has always been a hideout for celebrities, artists, writers and those in the know. If you don't stay at the hotel, then at least go and have a drink at the bar, you're sure to find all sorts of interesting people to chat to."

Lamu - Any Advice For Travellers?

"Lamu attracts the kind of traveller who wants to relax, walk on the beach, cruise on a dhow and enjoy fantastic seafood. What's more, the Arab architecture and Swahili influence makes it a bit different from the norm.

"As I mentioned before, there are no big resorts, and a lot of the luxury places only have cold water showers - although who really needs hot water in a tropical climate?

"There are some excellent coral reefs in the waters off Lamu. If you're keen on snorkelling I'd recommend travelling from November to March, when the water is at its clearest."

So, Which Would I Choose?

Zanzibar is still right up there on my list: I'd love to take my camera and wander the streets of Stone Town, spend some time on the beach, go scuba diving, try out the spice tour (which I've heard is a real sensory highlight), hop across to Chumbe Island ... there's so much I want to experience in Zanzibar.

Although, right now, the thought of getting a small group of friends together and hiring out a private villa on Lamu Island, or spending a week chilling out in Diamond Beach Village on Manda Island, catching a dhow across to Lamu Old Town in the mornings, then drifting back in the afternoon to my little banda on the beach ... well, that sounds like pure paradise to me.

Travel Fact File

The Zanzibar Archipelago

Zanzibar Island lies off the east coast of Tanzania, about a 1.5 hour ferry ride from Dar Es Salaam.

There are good flight connections from Nairobi, and 1time airline now flies direct from Johannesburg every Saturday.

Choose from a wide range of Zanzibar accommodation; on the east cost we'd recommend the spacious bungalows at Mapenzi Beach Club, while the rooms at La Gemma Dell'Est, on the north coast, all have a sea view.

The Lamu Archipelago

Lamu Island lies off the northern Kenyan coast. There are two flights a day from Nairobi to the airport on neighbouring Manda Island, followed by a ferry transfer across the Lamu Channel.

Lamu Island accommodation varies from luxurious private villas to great little beach lodges. On the south-western tip of the island is Kipungani Explorer, a Robinson Crusoe hideaway with grass and thatch bandas. Spend leisurely days sailing, kayaking in the mangroves, strolling along deserted beaches or fishing with the locals.

In Shela Village you can stay at the simple yet elegant Peponi Hotel, which has a long history and a legendary bar. If you'd prefer your own space, we'd recommend either Garden House, a 3-bedroom villa with a lovely little garden, or Shela Beach House, an incredible beach villa set right on the water.

On Manda Island try Diamond Beach Village; a little eco lodge with lovely bandas made from woven palm fronds and Makuti thatch. You won't find air con or spa treatments here, however, if you're after a few days of pure relaxation right on the beach, then we think you'll love it.