Tsodilo Hills

Botswana's Tsodilo Hills are about 53km southwest of Shakawe in dry, bush-covered and softly undulating landscape. The site consists of four hills that rise abruptly, to about 400m, from the dry expanse of bushveld. Having been inhabited for about 30,000 years, they're one of the world's oldest historical sites.

The hills are home to more than 4,000 San (Bushman) paintings - probably the world's most important collection of rock art. But perhaps even more remarkable is the resonant atmosphere of spirituality that inhabits Tsodilo Hills. The feeling is deeply unsettling to some visitors, who find themselves wanting to flee as soon as possible, while others are thoroughly entranced by the magical feeling of the hills.

Spirit legend

Laurens van der Post described how his party ignored the advice of their local guide, who warned against killing in the surrounds of the hills, hunting warthog and steenbok on their way. When they reached the hills their cameras jammed repeatedly, their tape recorders failed, and they were repeatedly attacked by swarms of bees. These occurrences ceased only when they made a written apology to the spirits of the place.

The four Tsodilo Hills

Arranged roughly in a line, the most southerly of the Tsodilo Hills is called the Male Hill. It's the tallest of the hills, rising 410m above the surrounding area. Close to it is the Female Hill, which covers about three times the area of the Male Hill but reaches only 300m in height.

Female Hill has most of the important rock art sites, and its western side has a permanent source of water. Northwest of the Female Hill is the Child Hill, which is only about 40m high. A fourth hill is kilometres northwest of Child Hill - rumoured to be Male Hill's first wife, whom he left when he met Female Hill.

Rock painting sites

Several walking trails provide helpful routes around the painting sites. Among the more interesting paintings is the zebra on a small outcrop, now the logo of Botswana's National Museums and Monuments. Paintings of whales and penguins suggest contact between the San and other peoples, while other paintings show a crowd of male figures with erect penises, an indicator of the Bushman trance dances that inspired altered states of consciousness.

Some paintings are located impossibly high on cliff walls, overlooking the surrounding veld. Several days are needed to explore the extensive and exceptional rock paintings properly.

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