Maseru

Many travellers exclude Maseru from their itineraries, but it is a good place to stop for a day or two to arrange logistics and stock up on supplies before venturing out into central Lesotho's trekking areas like Malealea, Semonkong and the Sehlabathebe National Park or the eastern challenges of the legendary Sani Pass.

At King Moshoeshoe's declaration, in 1869 Maseru changed from being a small trading town on the western border of Lesotho to being the capital of the Basotho nation. The British put precious little effort into developing it (no more than they put into the rest of Lesotho), and Maseru today is Lesotho's only large town, and a relative backwater when compared to cities like Johannesburg.

Increasing urbanisation, fuelled by the poverty of Lesotho's rural regions, has resulted in the rapid growth of Maseru over the last few years. Surrounded by sprawling shantytowns, Maseru remains a town with very high unemployment, but its centre is compact, smart and fashionable. It has good shops, restaurants and hotels, and vibrant people.

Most of the action happens on Kingsway, the main road that runs through the town, becoming progressively less salubrious as it approaches the cathedral.

Many buildings were destroyed or looted in the riots that followed the SADC invasion of 1998; you can still see the scars in places. Most were hastily redeveloped, but lively flea markets and informal traders sprang up where their more institutional competitors were once entrenched, giving the town an authentically African feel.

Take the precautions here that you'd ordinarily employ when walking around any African city, and try to avoid wandering too far at night; the empty streets make tourists vulnerable targets for muggers.

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