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The Nankumba Peninsula pokes north into Lake Malawi, composed mostly of granite that solidified below the surface but was exposed over time by uplift from below and erosion from above. Granite outcrops form the hills and offshore islands characteristic of Lake Malawi National Park, as well as the surrounding features of Cape Maclear, which is the main headland at the top of the peninsula.
Cape Maclear was named by David and Charles Livingstone, who visited it in 1861 and named it after Sir Thomas Maclear, then Astronomer Royal at the Cape of Good Hope. A mission was established here in 1875, which flourished initially and drew migrants from the surrounds thanks to the education and medical services on offer.
But mosquitoes and tsetse flies began to impact the health of the settlers, and in 1881 they decided to move to a new site (Bandawe, further north). The Cape Maclear settlement was abandoned in 1896. A hotel established here had similar luck - initial success followed by a decline of fortunes - and was taken down in 1951.
Today Cape Maclear is one of the most beautiful and popular locations in Malawi - a stunning beach on the turquoise shores of the lake, encircled by granite boulders and woodland that hums with the heat of the sun. Many activities are available: you can kayak out to one of the nearby islands, dive with otters, or just laze around on the beach.
The large but untidy fishing village of Chembe is on the north-facing coast inside the national park. Some of its residents eschew fishing for work in the tourism industry, which is often more lucrative. You'll be able to find very comfortable, if not luxurious accommodation around here fairly easily.
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