Nkhata Bay

David Livingstone was much mistaken in supposing Nkhata Bay was the northerlymost point of Lake Malawi when he sailed up the lake in 1861. In fact Nhkata Bay lies about 50 km from Mzuzu on the western shore of the lake, and only about three fifths of the way up it.

Actually a collection of little bays, Nkhata Bay is overlooked by Nkhata village, which is spread over a series of spurs that separate the narrow valleys leading down to the water - surely one of the prettiest settings of any lakeshore village. A winding dirt road connects each little bay to one other, and each has its own peculiar feel (and its own peculiar restaurants).

The village-cum-town of Nkhata is a busy fishing port with an interesting market full of fresh fish and vegetables. The fairly famous and eco-friendly Njaya lodge offers a range of accommodation options, and the more upmarket Chikale Lodge, about a mile out of town, offers en-suite chalets on the water's edge.

Nkhata Bay is the northern rival of Cape Maclear as a great backpackers' destination, with bays and beaches, hostel accommodation, and activities such as kayaking and scuba diving. The Lake Malawi steamer also stops here. Lazy days can be spent lying on the beaches, and young traders will bring their wooden carved wares to you for bargaining and barter.

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