Port Louis

If you had been to Mauritius' capital several years ago, you might not recognise it today. Back then, Port Louis didn't offer very much for the visitor to do or see. But Port Louis has had a face lift, and these days there's plenty to keep you busy.

The new Caudan Waterfront is considered by many to be the main tourist attraction in Port Louis. With trendy shops, cinemas, restaurants and a casino, it has become the hub of the city. However, there are other places of interest for people who want to explore the city's jumble of crumbling old edifices and shiny new buildings a little further.

The Central Market is one of Port Louis' most memorable attractions. The jostling crowds, the strange smells, and the excitement of haggling will remain with you for a long time. Some stalls sell fake designer t-shirts, others offer herbal cures for every imaginable ill. Buy some real vanilla pods (expensive but they last for years), select something from the mounds of tropical fruit, and snack on samoosas and dal pancakes.

The Chinese quarter has plenty of little restaurants and food stalls on the street corners. It's probably the most colourful part of the city with its ayurvedic remedy shops and spice sellers. You'll also find the island's most beautiful mosque in this area. The Jummah Mosque was built in 1853 and has some fabulous teak doors and decorations, but it is only open to visitors at certain times.

The Mauritians have a mania for horse-racing and, from May to November, the Champ de Mars (also called the Hippodrome) is crowded with enthusiastic punters. The race course was once a training ground for French troops and is also where the Mauritians celebrate Independence Day on 12 March. The rest of the time it is used by joggers.

Port Louis, by the way, was named after Louis XV of France by the French East India Company who moved their headquarters there in 1722. Later, the British developed the city into a major port, but the opening of the Suez Canal and the arrival of steamships saw a decline in its importance. Port Louis is still a working harbour and commercial centre, and like most modern cities, can be rather noisy and crowded.

Ten minutes' drive south of Port Louis, the Domaine Les Pailles offers a respite from the hustle and heat of the city. There are five restaurants and 3000 acres of grounds to enjoy. You can also take the one hour guided tour in a little train or horse-drawn carriage and learn about the production of sugar and rum on the island.

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