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The Limpopo River wends its way from the South African-Zimbabwe border to just south of the town of Xai-Xai, where it empties its muddied contents into the Indian Ocean. Those on a self-drive Mozambique holiday will cross the mouth when heading up or down the coast.
These days the glimmering wood-and-thatch Zongoene Lodge dominates the southern bank at the mouth, offering accommodation and a variety of activities. The lodge has its own private airstrip, making it a convenient fly-in destination.
There is a faint historical slant: in 1891, the imperialist Cecil John Rhodes sent a consignment of rifles on a 100-ton steamer called the Countess of Caravan up the lower reaches of this river. Hoping to curry favour with the local king, Rhodes wanted to use the river as an outlet for Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe).
Rhodes delivered the rifles successfully, returning only to have the boat impounded by the Portuguese, and he was forced to abandon his interest in the area.
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