Cape Cross

In 1486 the Portuguese navigator Diego Cao landed here and erected a stone cross in honour of John II of Portugal. Cape Cross is a desolate place unless you are a seal, in which case you'll thrive on the abundant fish supply and undisturbed surroundings.

Undisturbed, that is, until commercial fishermen and tourists arrived. The fishermen want to cull the 100,000-strong breeding colony of Cape Fur Seals as they consume so many fish, but the tourists just want to take their pictures. Oblivious to all this, the seals take absolutely no notice and carry on fighting, bleating, swimming and sleeping.

Fur seals are different from other seals. They have cute little external ears that other species lack. Males can weigh from 187kg to 360kgs and are very territorial while keeping an eye on their harem of between 5 and 25 females.

Any weak and dying seals are disposed of by scavenging black-backed jackals, who trot warily amongst the colony. Though the seals are fascinating to watch, you'll probably be overwhelmed by their guano-like smell before too long, and need to move on.

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