Okahandja

Just 45 minutes north of Windhoek, Okahandja is the administrative and emotional centre for the Herero people. They were formally nomadic cattle herders who moved into this area occupied by the Khoikhoi.

The mid 19th century saw constant conflict and Okahandja has a number of monuments dating from that period. If you are lucky enough to be there on the nearest weekend to the 23 August, you will witness the most amazing ritual when thousands of Hereros gather to honour their fallen chiefs on what is called Maherero Day.

They converge on a churchyard where Chief Mahehero (1890) and Tjamuaha (1861) are buried. You might find their traditional robes rather unAfrican and so they are, because German missionaries dressed them from top to toe in tight fitting Victorian-style dresses with under-petticoats and then topped this with a wide hat.

In such stifling heat these heavy (traditionally red with black bodice) dresses might seem a little over the top, yet the Herero women wear them proudly and do not like to be photographed.

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