Akagera National Park

Located in northeast Rwanda and bordering Tanzania on the west is the Akagera National Park.

In contrast to the rest of Rwanda, the area is mostly low-lying savanna, with gently rolling plains of woodland and grassland. To the west of the plains stands a fence of mountains (with no peak higher than 1,800m), while in the east a dozen lakes, linked through swamps and channels, create an intricate web of wetlands.

The lakes in the park support one of the highest concentrations of hippo in Africa, alongside which many large crocodiles skulk about. A high concentration of large water birds can also be spotted along the lakes, sure to impress more than just the seasoned birders.

Sadly, the park has been highly affected by people. In 1998 the park area was reduced from 2,500km² to 900km², as it conceded land in both the northern and western territories. Animals have also been targeted and ruthless poaching in the last few years has severely decreased numbers.

Despite the land concession, people still take advantage, and even the lakes within the park are subject to fishing camps, with the in joke being that the most spotted animal drinking around some of the lakes is the domestic cow.

Ironically, even with the human encroachment, the nicest thing about this park is its off-the-beaten-trail nature. There is no systematic feel to viewing, sometimes underlying the safari experience at other parks, and hours can go by before you spot another vehicle.

Even though numbers have dipped, there are still plenty of animals around and lion and leopard are still here, albeit in small numbers. The reserve is a good one, but the general consensus is that with better management, and perhaps some financial luck, it could be a superb one.

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