Hlane Royal National Park is Swaziland's largest protected area, and one of the best places in the world for tracking elephant and rhino on foot. On a guided walk spotting a rhino is a near-certainty, and you might even see lion, cheetah or leopard.
Alternatively, you can self-drive. A 200km network of roads crisscrosses the park's flat terrain, weaving between 1,000 year-old hardwood vegetation and across shallow pans, which attract great herds of animals during the dry winter months.
Hlane (meaning "'wilderness" in siSwati) has two small camps. Self-catering accommodation in thatched huts has an authentic bush feel, as without electricity the fire becomes your stove. There is also a more modern self-catering camp with family cottages.
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