Dar Es Salaam

Dar es Salaam is a hustling, bustling seaport on the east coast of Tanzania that straddles some of the most important sea routes on earth.

To most travellers, Dar es Salaam is just a convenient port of call on the way to more exotic destinations of Zanzibar, the game parks, Pemba or Mafia Islands. This is a great pity, because "Dar", as it is lovingly called by aficionados of the city, is a fascinating rabbit warren of a tropical port, often surprising the unwary wanderer with scenes of breathtaking beauty.

Life in Dar es Salaam revolves around the huge harbour, with the business district fanning out from here in a series of fascinating side and main streets.

There is something irresistible about whiling away a few hours sitting at the water's edge, watching dhows slipping skilfully under the bows of huge cruise liners and cargo ships.

The one time capital of Tanzania the 'Haven of Peace' is at the center of an amazing new African safari destination - where the islands of the Zanzibar archipelago and the remote game reserves of the south and west of the country, Selous Game Reserve, Ruaha National Park and the Mahale Mountains National Park make up arguably the best bush and beach safari vacation in Africa.

All the islands are less than an hour's flight from Dar, as is Selous Game Reserve thereby ensuring that minimal time is spent in traveling between destinations once you are in the country.

Access to Tanzania's iconic safari destinations, Serengeti and Ngorongoro, is also easy from Dar Es Salaam.

The city itself provides great accommodation for a rest night before or after a safari, and many travelers are choosing to spend more than one night in Dar to experience the vibe of this fascinating city/place.

Places of interest

On the northern arm of the harbour is Kivukoni Front, with its frenetic fish market, where every morning at dawn the dhows sail in to offload the night's catch, and yelling fishwives compete with each other for the best of the catch.

Other places worth a visit in the city centre include the botanical gardens, and the adjacent National Museum, where archaeology buffs can see the skull of "Nutcracker Man", antique tribal artefacts and some fascinating World War One memorabilia.

Wandering the streets of Dar es Salaam is nowhere more rewarding than in the Asian business district, along India Street and the intersecting Indira Ghandi Street. Here the flavours and smells are of a little Bombay, and if there's anything you need to buy for your holiday, this is where you'll find it. In this concentrated section of the city, you'll find some of the best restaurants in East Africa, notably on Jamhuri, Mkunguni, Zanaki and Kisutu Streets.

Further afield, take a taxi or walk up Ohio Street to where it becomes Upanga Road near the Gymkhana Club and look out for the distinctive Makuti-palm roofed building that houses Nyumba ya Saana, the House of Art. Begun in 1972 by an American nun, the co-operative supports nearly 200 young artists, with work ranging from batiks through carvings, oil paintings, pottery, weaving and clothing.

Safety

Be warned though: like all seaports, Dar es Salaam has its dangers. You are strongly advised not to wander around the city at night in small groups, particularly around the port and on the beaches north of the city around Kunduchi.

Never exchange money on the streets with the touts who offer you "best rates in town". They will either be rip-off artists who cleverly pad a wad of shillings with blank paper, or undercover policemen who will give you a warning but keep your dollars. The Tanzanian shilling is, in any case, a regulated currency, and the black market will yield scant rewards.

Brief history

The city itself is an eclectic mix of Swahili, German, Asian and British architecture, reflecting its colonial past and more recent history. It is a relatively new city - Sultan Majid bin Said, then the sultan of Zanzibar, saw the potential of Dar es Salaam as a deepwater port because of its strategic position at the centre of the East African coast.

In 1866, the Sultan began work on his palace, built of coral blocks hewn on Changuu Island off Zanzibar. But he died before its completion and the palace fell into ruin - but not before he gave the tiny port its name - "Haven of Peace".

Eleven years later, the German colonialists revived the plan and seized Dar es Salaam from its Arab rulers, fighting off an uprising by the local Bushiri tribe. The Teutonic order they imposed on the chaotic little port is reflected today in the neatly laid out grid patterns of streets fanning out around the port, and in several grand edifices scattered around the waterfront, most notably the German Hospital, the Lutheran Church and St Joseph's Cathedral.

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