Oudtshoorn

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The Klein Karoo is a semi-desert area wedged between the coastal mountains that separate it from the Garden Route and the impressive Swartberg mountain range in the north. The region is watered by a number of streams that flow down from the mountains to join the Olifants River.

Grapes grow here (Calitzdorp produces some of the country's best port), as does lucerne (alfalfa), which is why farmers were able to successfully introduce the ostrich to farming practices - lucerne is a favourite food of the ostrich.

Oudtshoorn is the tourist capital of the Little Karoo and the ostrich capital of South Africa, with thousands of the beady-eyed birds all over the place. With big bodies but small brains, these long-legged monsters eat pebbles to aid digestion and are particularly attracted to the odd earring or glinting necklace from unsuspecting tourists.

At the turn of the century, ostrich feathers were in such high demand that the fashion-conscious paid a premium and feathered the nests of the barons, who built magnificent mansions known as 'Feather Palaces'. This fine architecture can still be seen around the sedate and pleasant town.

Outdtshoorn has several ostrich show farms, which sell the beautiful downy feathers, but now make more money out of the desirable, soft, but strong and knobbly leather.

There's also an export demand for ostrich eggs, just one of which makes an omelette for 20 people and at the show farms you can ride the birds in an ungainly manner.

There's no shortage of things to do in the Oudtshoorn area. You can tour through the fascinating Cango Caves of stalagmites and stalactites, visit a crocodile farm, or stroke the fastest land animal on earth while it purrs like a tractor at Cheetahland.

There are some spectacular mountain passes around Outdshoorn, including the Swartberg Pass (the most sensational in South Africa). The wonderful, twisted sedimentary layers of rock sport colours that look as if a painter were splashing about with his palette. The 24km road has some awesome sheer drops and hairpin bends leading down to great echoing canyons.

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