Adventure Zambia's Kayaking & Walking

After touching down in Livingstone, the small town named after the first European to see Victoria Falls, you are whisked off to The River Club, a waterside lodge that is almost a time capsule of a more gracious past. The wide verandas of the common areas are lined with black-and-white photographs of Livingstone’s storied past, the polished dining-room table groans with burnished silver and the library’s shelves are adorned with all sorts of memorabilia of the British royal family.

But down in your suite, modernity is allowed to intrude with air conditioning, extremely large beds, bathrobes made up in jaunty African fabric and – the highlight of any stay – views of the broad Zambezi River. Some rooms even allow you to lie in a clawfoot bathtub and watch the birds and monkeys as they live out their lives on its banks. There are multiple-bedroom units for families and even two stand-alone villas, one of which was built for a visit by the England’s Princess Anne. Some have private plunge pools and there is also a large swimming pool with river views.

The River Club is a wonderful place to unwind after a long-haul flight and a great destination to recalibrate to the rhythms of Africa. After a tour of Victoria Falls, return to play a game of croquet on the lawn, run the self-guided trail, play a game of cards or simply sip an iced drink under the trees as you watch the world go by. The hotel has a special separate kosher kitchen so Jewish guests are completely catered for, especially on high holy days.

After two nights at The River Club, you bid Livingstone farewell and head to Mfuwe (in South Luangwa National Park) via the capital, Lusaka. South Luangwa’s central claim to fame is as the birthplace of walking safaris, a unique experience in which you forego the usual 4x4 game-drive vehicle and head out on foot to find game with an experienced guide and armed ranger. In addition, it is one of the few places in Africa where camps close over the rainy season because the black-cotton soil becomes impassable. This means that – for up to six months in some places – the animals will hardly see humans or vehicles, making them less habituated to our presence.

Your first stop is Tafika Camp, right on the Luangwa River. Like many ‘bush camps’ in Zambia, Tafika is constructed entirely from thatch by artisans from the nearby village using traditional techniques. This means open en suite bathrooms (with hot showers), cool slate floors and everything – from window blinds to doors – made of thatch.

Depending on your schedule, you may have time to join an afternoon game drive or even head out on a mountain bike. If you prefer to relax, then choose a hammock overlooking the river and kept your binoculars to hand for watching birds.

Dinner generally includes hearty English favourites like roast beef and potatoes, taken under the trees with the Milky Way twinkling above.

You awake before dawn for a snack and to lace up your hiking as today is your first day of walking through the South Luangwa bush. Your destination is Chikoko Tree Camp, another thatched ‘bush camp’ with basic amenities and an authentic, off-the-grid African atmosphere.

You walk during the coolest part of the day, stopping for refreshment breaks or to watch giraffe grazing or far-off elephants drinking. Awaiting you at Chikoko are friendly staff, delicious food and – most welcome of all – a comfortable bed.

You awake before dawn for a snack and to lace up your hiking as today is your first day of walking through the South Luangwa bush. Your destination is Chikoko Tree Camp, another thatched ‘bush camp’ with basic amenities and an authentic, off-the-grid African atmosphere.

You walk during the coolest part of the day, stopping for refreshment breaks or to watch giraffe grazing or far-off elephants drinking. Awaiting you at Chikoko are friendly staff, delicious food and – most welcome of all – a comfortable bed.

A final day of walking has a great reward at the end: Chamilandu is a luxurious take on a classic thatched bush camp with designer furniture, open-plan en suite bathrooms, chic 4-poster beds and solar power. This is a fitting culmination of your walking safari through South Luangwa National Park and no doubt there will be celebrations over dinner, which is served overlooking the Luangwa River.

After breakfast, a short-haul flight takes you from Mfuwe Airport to the Royal Airstrip in the gem that is the Lower Zambezi National Park. You’ll spend the last few days of your African adventure at the opulent Chiawa Camp. The multi-award-winning camp boasts incredible views over the mighty Zambezi River and is known for its regular sightings of elephant, lion, leopard, hippo and more.

It might prove difficult to tear yourself away from the luxury and comfort that Chiawa provides, but there is much more to explore outside the camp’s front doors. Explore the raw, untamed wilderness, teeming with big game, either on land in a safari vehicle or by boat and canoe, floating down the river as hippo and elephant frolic on the water’s edge.

Savour your last breakfast in Zambia before departing for Kenneth Kaunda Airport. You might be homebound, but the memories you made in Africa will follow you throughout your life.