Dar Es Salaam

Dar es Salaam is a hustling, bustling seaport on the coast of Tanzania accessing one of the most important sea routes on earth. To most travellers though, the city is just a convenient port of call on the way to the more exotic Zanzibar, Pemba or Mafia islands, Tanzania's national parks, or as a business destination.

This is a great pity, because "Dar", as it is lovingly called by aficionados of the city, is a fascinating rabbit warren of a tropical port, often surprising the wanderer with scenes of breathtaking beauty - and there is something irresistible about whiling away a few hours sitting at the water's edge, watching dhows slipping skilfully under the bows of huge cruise liners and cargo ships.

Our recommended Dar es Salaam accommodation:

There's plenty of accommodation in Dar es Salaam, ranging from centrally-based modern hotels to stylish boutique guesthouses and more and more travellers are choosing to spend more than one night in Dar to experience the vibe of this fascinating city.

Royal Palm - Located in the heart of Dar, the Royal Palm is ideal for business people as well as tourists and offers an extensive range of facilities for both sets of visitors.

Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski - One of Dar es Salaam's most famous hotels, the 'Kili' is located at the heart of the business district and boasts a long list of facilities as well as a popular cocktail bar.

Oyster Bay - Providing a calm and more intimate experience, Oyster Bay is a sea-facing boutique hotel boasting well-appointed rooms and dedicated staff.

Safari and Zanzibar add-ons

The one-time capital of Tanzania - the 'Haven of Peace' - is at the centre of an amazing new African safari destination where the islands of the Zanzibar archipelago and the remote game reserves of the south and west of the country, Selous Game Reserve, Ruaha National Park and the Mahale Mountains National Park make up arguably the best bush and beach safari vacation in Africa.

All the islands are less than an hour's flight from Dar, as is Selous Game Reserve and access to Tanzania's iconic safari destinations, the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, is also easy from Dar Es Salaam.

Try a 2 night add-on at the amazing Selous Game Reserve and explore one of Africa's biggest, wildest and least visited parks.

Our recommended safari add-on accommodation:

Sand Rivers Selous - Set overlooking the Rufiji River and unashamedly blending classic safari elegance with all the thrills of the African bush, this lodge offers a top end experience with added extras like fly-camping.

Selous Riverside Safari Camp - With only 10 luxurious tents tucked away on the banks of the Rufiji River, this camp offers you the chance to explore the Selous by 4X4, on foot or boat -oh, and they also do hot air balloon rides.

Selous Impala Camp - Priding itself on delivering an intimate and tailored wilderness experience, Impala Camp has 7 very private tents on the banks of the Rufiji River and has developed quite a reputation as a tiger-fishing hotspot.

Our recommended Zanzibar add-on accommodation:

Fumba Beach Lodge - An air of peaceful informality is what you can expect at this beach lodge, most famous for its excellent diving and snorkelling.

Planhotel La Gemma Dell'Est - It's nothing but 5-star tropical luxury at this amazing beach resort. There's plenty to do, or you can do nothing all day!

Zanzibar Serena Inn - Located in historic Stone Town, Zanzibar Serena is a luxurious hotel blending old world architecture and modern facilities and boasts an exhaustive list of facilities.

Mtoni Marine - Located a discreet 5 minute drive from bustling Stone Town, this family-friendly lodge is a peaceful haven of tranquility and also boasts a spa.

Places of interest

On the northern arm of the harbour is Kivukoni Front, with its frenetic fish market, where every morning at dawn the dhows sail in to offload the night's catch, and yelling fishwives compete with each other for the best of the catch.

Other places worth a visit in the city centre include the botanical gardens, and the adjacent National Museum, where archaeology buffs can see the skull of "Nutcracker Man", antique tribal artefacts and some fascinating World War One memorabilia.

Wandering the streets of Dar es Salaam is nowhere more rewarding than in the Asian business district, along India Street and the intersecting Indira Ghandi Street. Here the flavours and smells are of a little Bombay, and if there's anything you need to buy for your holiday, this is where you'll find it. In this concentrated section of the city, you'll find some of the best restaurants in East Africa, notably on Jamhuri, Mkunguni, Zanaki and Kisutu Streets.

Further afield, take a taxi or walk up Ohio Street to where it becomes Upanga Road near the Gymkhana Club and look out for the distinctive Makuti-palm roofed building that houses Nyumba ya Saana, the House of Art. Begun in 1972 by an American nun, the co-operative supports nearly 200 young artists, with work ranging from batiks through carvings, oil paintings, pottery, weaving and clothing.

Safety

Be warned though: like all seaports, Dar es Salaam has its dangers. You are strongly advised not to wander around the city at night in small groups, particularly around the port and on the beaches north of the city around Kunduchi.

Never exchange money on the streets with the touts who offer you "best rates in town". They will either be rip-off artists who cleverly pad a wad of shillings with blank paper, or undercover policemen who will give you a warning but keep your dollars. The Tanzanian shilling is, in any case, a regulated currency, and the black market will yield scant rewards.

Brief history

The city itself is an eclectic mix of Swahili, German, Asian and British architecture, reflecting its colonial past and more recent history. It is a relatively new city - Sultan Majid bin Said, then the sultan of Zanzibar, saw the potential of Dar es Salaam as a deepwater port because of its strategic position at the centre of the East African coast.

In 1866, the Sultan began work on his palace, built of coral blocks hewn on Changuu Island off Zanzibar. But he died before its completion and the palace fell into ruin - but not before he gave the tiny port its name - "Haven of Peace".

Eleven years later, the German colonialists revived the plan and seized Dar es Salaam from its Arab rulers, fighting off an uprising by the local Bushiri tribe. The Teutonic order they imposed on the chaotic little port is reflected today in the neatly laid out grid patterns of streets fanning out around the port, and in several grand edifices scattered around the waterfront, most notably the German Hospital, the Lutheran Church and St Joseph's Cathedral.

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